Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

either the button isnt tight on the stick, pull the bottom of the stick down and make sure the sirclip is in the correct spot.

or u have to have the key in the ignition and foot on the brake otherwise it wont move

yeah you need the ignition on and your foot on the brake pedal.

if thats not working, its probably the solenoid that activated the locking mechanism. there is a manual override next to the park position. pull out the little stopper and stick a screwdriver in the opening. it will release it

this is on an M35. C34 might be similar.

Hey thanks for the help guys. My foot is on the brake. I know I have to do that for the shift lock. On the c34 I can't see any manual release thing for a screw driver. I do know what they look like I've seen them on new cars. I am looking for it. Where is it? I have called mechanic b says it's electrical problem. Because I can hear the click sound when it unlocks but then it won't move dam it.

I DOUBT its an electrical fault.

The lockout for park on these cars runs off a PHYSICAL locking cable that runs from the shifter to the underside of the ignition barrel.

The cable up and to the left of the shifter in this car is the Lockout cable.... see how its been removed for manual conversion. Pull your centre console out and have a look to see if its still in place and then look under your barell to make sure its not causing issues for you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=298844

Alrightey I fixed it. It was the ignition cable. Runs from the console to the ignition. I took off all the plastic under the steering wheel to trace the cable to the stick. Injust gave it a pull and it's fixed. I've played around with it and now it's better than before. Thank kidafa for that link and everyone else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...