Jump to content
SAU Community

Stick Won't Move From "p" Park

Stagea1

By Stagea1,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
Posted

either the button isnt tight on the stick, pull the bottom of the stick down and make sure the sirclip is in the correct spot.

or u have to have the key in the ignition and foot on the brake otherwise it wont move

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

yeah you need the ignition on and your foot on the brake pedal.

if thats not working, its probably the solenoid that activated the locking mechanism. there is a manual override next to the park position. pull out the little stopper and stick a screwdriver in the opening. it will release it

this is on an M35. C34 might be similar.

Stagea1 Enthusiast

Stagea1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks for the help guys. My foot is on the brake. I know I have to do that for the shift lock. On the c34 I can't see any manual release thing for a screw driver. I do know what they look like I've seen them on new cars. I am looking for it. Where is it? I have called mechanic b says it's electrical problem. Because I can hear the click sound when it unlocks but then it won't move dam it.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

I DOUBT its an electrical fault.

The lockout for park on these cars runs off a PHYSICAL locking cable that runs from the shifter to the underside of the ignition barrel.

The cable up and to the left of the shifter in this car is the Lockout cable.... see how its been removed for manual conversion. Pull your centre console out and have a look to see if its still in place and then look under your barell to make sure its not causing issues for you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=298844

Stagea1 Enthusiast

Stagea1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alrightey I fixed it. It was the ignition cable. Runs from the console to the ignition. I took off all the plastic under the steering wheel to trace the cable to the stick. Injust gave it a pull and it's fixed. I've played around with it and now it's better than before. Thank kidafa for that link and everyone else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Kirby7887
      R32 GTR Lost All Interior Power to IGN Accessories

      By Kirby7887 · Posted

      Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      And gone to a new home  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...