Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty much, the boot was leaking at both the left and right sides, so I took the time, spent the money and resealed the rear lights even going so far as to use the Nissan sealant at surprising expense.

Well, it rained again, and the boot still gets water leaking in it. Its not coming from the lights, but I suspect its leaking in through the seal of the rear quater panel and the lip of the boot at the top: around that area.

So, has anyone else had a similar problem?

What was it?

How did you fix it?

thanks

I have the same type of problem with one of my R33's.

The boot leaks on one side at a time and fills one tail light. It is an intermittent problem that I cannot replicate by hosing the car and the tail lights have been out and resealed. Depending on which way the car is parked the water gets into the lower tail light,

The car has a factory GTR bootlid and spoiler and I am starting to think that it is leaking through the spoiler mounting bolt holes.

Any ideas or suggestions on what to try next would be appreciated. :thanks:

My R33 leaked on the left side from the top, inside the gutter the boot closes over.

It soaked one of my amps hence I could determine the position of the leak.

It appeared to come through the bolt which fastens the hinge for the boot.

The bolts just go through the base of the gutter with no rubber washers or sealant.

My car was in a prang years ago, maybe the panel beater missed it.

Lucky for me my car is black, so I used black Sikaflex and just neatly smeared over the hinge mounts and bolt heads.

Also when this leak happened, my car was facing down hill, which makes the gutter fill up.

So far so good.

  • 2 months later...

update, its wasnt the weathering strip, or not that i could tell. I tested the boot by pouring water over various parts of it repeatedly, and foud water entering from 4 + parts, including some seams of metal panles. I puit leftover sealent stuff there, but annoyingly there are still decent leaks which somehow let water get in on the L and R sides of the boot. Dispite all my testing, i have noidea how the funk this gets in the boot, its crazy.

Currently im fed up and have given up, and with the weather getting cold over here, i dont know when i will get to attempt to check more stuff. Im wondering weather the boot rubber seal is somehow letting it it, but thats just a last ditch guess.

this sucks

get some baby powder (or similar) and sprinkle it up and around the in side of the boot,when it next rains you will soon be able to determine where the water is coming in, had the same problem with my 300C, it had been rear ended at some stage in its life and the boot hinges were slightly buckled to the point where the boot lid wasnt sitting on its seal allowing water to enter

get some baby powder (or similar) and sprinkle it up and around the in side of the boot,when it next rains you will soon be able to determine where the water is coming in, had the same problem with my 300C, it had been rear ended at some stage in its life and the boot hinges were slightly buckled to the point where the boot lid wasnt sitting on its seal allowing water to enter

Short of locking your G/F in there and taking the car through the automated car wash, the above advice is good!

Short of locking your G/F in there and taking the car through the automated car wash, the above advice is good!

tempting to lock the GF in the boot right now anyway. . .crazy b@#ch

Mines leaking in the same manner and I traced it to the boot gutter where it looks like the seals are cracking. Am pretty sure it is not the boot bolts, and hinges as the leaks come from before that, and it is not the rear glass either. I like the baby powder idea so I will give it a wack. Weather has been nasty so I can't get it done, will use clear enamel paint in several layers until I can get it properly fixed.

My 4 door was leaking, resealed the tailights, still leaking. Replaced the bootlid with spoiler with a spoilerless one, problem solved. Looked like it was coming in through the spoiler holes. The rubber gaskets were pretty dried out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
×
×
  • Create New...