Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fixed! haha- aint no AWD-style understeering shenanigans here!

Wow did i mishear that? not inconceivable with all the engine noise and tyre screeching :P

oh and love your work Eric, pretty smooth and very atypical of a yank to downplay their work "oh btw heres a few random pics" and then bust out some of the most awesome pics i have ever seen from a track day.

Marulan is especially hard to get good shots from unless your prepared to go bush and hit some of the far corners of the track, you got some great shots of Skylines doing what they were made to do. Looks like there is a 33gtst s2 just like mine there too, at least on the dry day that you went?

Never driven there in the wet but had a few wakefield days while it was raining and for all the fun i find it far too unpredictable (and im not the only as evidenced by your blooper reel) whereas on a dry track you can really hone your skills and find out what the car is capable of.

Thanks for the heel and toe lessons but nothing beats practice, practice practice!

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Also, further to Duncan's post, learning to correctly heel-and-toe early before you get into a corner will help with engine braking, taking some of the pressure (and therefore heat) off your brakes.

I find i like to use the extra engine braking caused by the spin up of the motor when i don't heel/toe (of course easing the clutch out so avoiding compression lockup of the rears) and I still get the regular engine braking you're talking about from the closed throttle.

I guess the only way to interpret this however, is that my brakes are too front biased, because I reckon my way of doing it gives me better overall stopping. If the brakes were better balanced the non-heal/toe would cause compression lockup on the rears.

Yep, wrong way around Dave, original post fixed ;)

Jarrad, almost certainly that noise is your gearbox thrust bearing. A bit of noise from it is no issue, just replace it when you get the clutch done. It may have been brought on by the day but it isn't urgent to address.

Adam, spot on, if you are using compression braking and find it helpful, you should have more rear brake bias. It's really just a bandaid for something wrong in the barke bias (because a foot brake will always be more effective and consistent)

BTW Eric....always have 2 hands on the wheels when you are planning a spin :P

is that expensive duncan??

pretty much determining weather to join the wakefeild day on how much itll cost to fix it.

You don't fix it until the clutch dies.

Most R32 and R33s have the same noise, just keep driving until you need a new clutch itself.

im pretty keen but i got no stockies and since i work in bluescope theyve cut all overtime, so trying to cut back a bit hah. if its raining i may come so i can keep my tires on.

well see :)

im pretty keen but i got no stockies and since i work in bluescope theyve cut all overtime, so trying to cut back a bit hah. if its raining i may come so i can keep my tires on.

well see :)

im pretty keen but i got no stockies and since i work in bluescope theyve cut all overtime, so trying to cut back a bit hah. if its raining i may come so i can keep my tires on.

well see :)

dude, i've got some you can fry. these guys still haven't picked up the stockies at my place so i've got 6 lying around. more than welcome to use them.

The GTR lives!

just got it back from CRD about 10 minutes ago and proceeded to drive it very sensibly with out any sort of erratic or unnecessarily vigorous acceleration all the way home causing very little noise pollution in my neighbourhood. Or the exact opposite of that, I'm a little hazy on the details.

Apparently it blew one of the boost pipes off and just blind sided the ecu's ability to tell how much air was actually going into the engine, hence the epic over fuel.

Anyway, good to go for the next track day!

The GTR lives!

just got it back from CRD about 10 minutes ago and proceeded to drive it very sensibly with out any sort of erratic or unnecessarily vigorous acceleration all the way home causing very little noise pollution in my neighbourhood. Or the exact opposite of that, I'm a little hazy on the details.

Apparently it blew one of the boost pipes off and just blind sided the ecu's ability to tell how much air was actually going into the engine, hence the epic over fuel.

Anyway, good to go for the next track day!

great news Matt...you owe me a proper ride in that beast! Seriously, the flames coming out of the exhaust when i followed you in to Picton were epic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...