Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 2.8 with TO4Z running up to 26psi, on the track especially the turbo gets glowing red hot and obviously the thin metal gasket between turbo and manifold can't handle it and blows out the front and back, this one has only lasted 2 events and has blown out the front, I don't want to have to keep replacing it every month or 2 ? thinking of just running a weld across the front? or does anyone have any other options?

Sounds like the manifold flange isnt flat. Under stress the exhaust gas will always find a way out, and once it leaks a little it will burn the entire gasket out in seconds. You may need to pull the manifold and have the flange milled so its perfectly flat and matches the turbine housing.

Two perfectly flat surfaces will seal well with just a little loctite ultra grey on the surfaces and survive virtually any temperature. At the most, adding one of those ultra thin metal only gaskets with the embossed ridge around the hole is also beneficial. But always use the silicon on the gasket, and not that copper based crap that never sets.

If your fanatical about perfection, you could have a ring cut into the flange when its being milled that would then have a stainless steel wire ring glued into it. Then you could use a flat copper gasket and it would be a perfect seal. Same concept as o-ringing a cylinder head to a block.

yep, most likely need to get both mating surfaces machined flat. then repalce studs with new ones and use the crushlock nuts, or nuts with some other type of locking system. most likely it's either vibration loosening the nuts slightly (gasket blows out) or surfaces not 100% flat (again, gasket blows out).

26psi is good boost but there are plenty of cars I know running 30psi and more without these problems. welding the turbine to the manifold might solve it but it might warp it a bit then it'll blow out the side instead of the front!

thanks fo the answers guys,

dump has big flexi in it and manifold is braced at mani/turbo back to the head, also used crush/lock nuts. and manifold is ceramic coated .

did have the turbo faced last time before it went on, sounds like I need to take the manifold off and have that faced also, I'll try that with the loctite and gasket, I didn't use any silocone last time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...