Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 2.8 with TO4Z running up to 26psi, on the track especially the turbo gets glowing red hot and obviously the thin metal gasket between turbo and manifold can't handle it and blows out the front and back, this one has only lasted 2 events and has blown out the front, I don't want to have to keep replacing it every month or 2 ? thinking of just running a weld across the front? or does anyone have any other options?

Sounds like the manifold flange isnt flat. Under stress the exhaust gas will always find a way out, and once it leaks a little it will burn the entire gasket out in seconds. You may need to pull the manifold and have the flange milled so its perfectly flat and matches the turbine housing.

Two perfectly flat surfaces will seal well with just a little loctite ultra grey on the surfaces and survive virtually any temperature. At the most, adding one of those ultra thin metal only gaskets with the embossed ridge around the hole is also beneficial. But always use the silicon on the gasket, and not that copper based crap that never sets.

If your fanatical about perfection, you could have a ring cut into the flange when its being milled that would then have a stainless steel wire ring glued into it. Then you could use a flat copper gasket and it would be a perfect seal. Same concept as o-ringing a cylinder head to a block.

yep, most likely need to get both mating surfaces machined flat. then repalce studs with new ones and use the crushlock nuts, or nuts with some other type of locking system. most likely it's either vibration loosening the nuts slightly (gasket blows out) or surfaces not 100% flat (again, gasket blows out).

26psi is good boost but there are plenty of cars I know running 30psi and more without these problems. welding the turbine to the manifold might solve it but it might warp it a bit then it'll blow out the side instead of the front!

thanks fo the answers guys,

dump has big flexi in it and manifold is braced at mani/turbo back to the head, also used crush/lock nuts. and manifold is ceramic coated .

did have the turbo faced last time before it went on, sounds like I need to take the manifold off and have that faced also, I'll try that with the loctite and gasket, I didn't use any silocone last time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven’t played with her in a while, but I’m back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 🤞
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
×
×
  • Create New...