Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

those are great numbers at 19psi

would be really keen to run my car on same dyno to see what kinda gains i could expect with similar turbos - what was the cost of the spec v turbos?

ouch bad luck with the accident - though from the vid it didnt look eric bana bad. what's needed for the repair?

post-73522-0-71517900-1329129207_thumb.jpg

Edited by domino_z
  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

those are great numbers at 19psi

would be really keen to run my car on same dyno to see what kinda gains i could expect with similar turbos - what was the cost of the spec v turbos?

ouch bad luck with the accident - though from the vid it didnt look eric bana bad. what's needed for the repair?

The Spec v turbo's were about $10K for the pair. They were $25K ea from Nissan! IHI couldn't sell the whole things directly but they did sell us the cores and the guys at Racepace built them from the stock housings. Given the wheel sizes etc it would be much easier / cheaper to get the same results using a Garret turbo (basically if you look at the numbers the standard turbo's are the same as a Garret 2860-7 and the Spec V turbo is the same as a 2860-5. It costs about $4K for a pair of -5's). You will still need to either change the manifold or adapt the cores into the standard housings however. Or else buy one of the pre-done units like the AMS Alpha 9 etc which is essentially all they are. But I actually think this slightly bigger turbo is ideally suited to these cars.

As for the car it's mostly superficial from our initial inspections. Nothing serious is broken - I drove it onto the trailer after it was pulled out of the ditch. And the good news for me is there is a top bloke by the name of Mark Hansen that happens to have a bunch of these parts I need laying around :)

The Spec v turbo's were about $10K for the pair. They were $25K ea from Nissan!

oooo that's a spicey meatball

im still on the fence whether to take the next step and swap out the turbos, but will keep an eye out for any used spec-v's that hit the net

re parts, also check out yahoo japan auctions for anything you're missing, there's so much cheap used oem parts on there

Edited by domino_z

Well if you think about the turbo sizes in relation to the old models - the current stock R35 turbo is the same size as found on a stock R34 N1 GT-R (which was a 2.6L engine) and the Spec V turbo's are the same as the Z Tune ones (which was a 2.8L engine). So really they are massively under turbo'd which is why the upgrade made no noticeable difference in drivability from a response POV - but made a significant difference in power.

The Spec v turbo's were about $10K for the pair. They were $25K ea from Nissan! IHI couldn't sell the whole things directly but they did sell us the cores and the guys at Racepace built them from the stock housings. Given the wheel sizes etc it would be much easier / cheaper to get the same results using a Garret turbo (basically if you look at the numbers the standard turbo's are the same as a Garret 2860-7 and the Spec V turbo is the same as a 2860-5. It costs about $4K for a pair of -5's). You will still need to either change the manifold or adapt the cores into the standard housings however. Or else buy one of the pre-done units like the AMS Alpha 9 etc which is essentially all they are. But I actually think this slightly bigger turbo is ideally suited to these cars.

As for the car it's mostly superficial from our initial inspections. Nothing serious is broken - I drove it onto the trailer after it was pulled out of the ditch. And the good news for me is there is a top bloke by the name of Mark Hansen that happens to have a bunch of these parts I need laying around :)

There's a surprise. Is it actually the -5 core in the R35 housings or is it "almost" the same?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...