Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all Im basically needing some help, info and suggestions in regards to doing some head work on an r33 gtst head

I've rebuilt the bottom end about 5 years ago, forged piston conrods etc the car currently has 297rwkw and i was thinking about getting some head work done like a port and polish but not my area of expertise

The only thing I did to my head when i rebuilt it back then was Tomei poncam 256 duration by 8.5 lift, as it was the only cam available at the time that were drop in that didnt need upgrading of valve springs.

So im thinking of porting and polishing, was looking at Tomei type B valve springs with retainers, not sure if I should go single or double, possibly oversized valves, and Tomei Pro Cams Solid

As this is a street car i dont want it to be too rough but am wanting some more power as the car is currently only on 20 psi and really wanna be getting around 26-27 psi but in saying that I do have a Garrett gt35/40r with a .86 housing or something as the car is manual.

Can anyone out there give me some suggestions on what size cams, valves springs and different brands to go for example Procams. 260 0r 270 degrees? 9.25mm or 10.25mm inlet exhaust as Im just trying to get my head around what to choose from and remembering trying not to spend the maximum but still trying to keep it street driveable. Will my current poncams be good with a port and polish or are they time wasting. Also as I didnt O-ring the block I was wondering If anyone out there has ever o-ringed the head, Is it possible?

Does anyone know of anywhere in Melbourne that can do change over heads instead of having car off the road for ages also?

Any info or feedback will be appreciated.

Regards

Bruno

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375141-r33-gtst-head-work/
Share on other sites

any work done to your head will be major $$$$, if you have the right tools, you can do it at home. its not terribly hard if you know what your doing.

other than that, getting your head rebuilt, wont give you intense gains in power, you can always run more boost if you want, your engine can handle it.

the furthest i would go with cams for street driveable would be 272 cams at pure max. unless you like sounding like a tractor or need little to no power low down....

ok fair enough I thought most people do some knid of head work to the Rb25 heads but according to a few people i spoke to they did recon these heads do flow exceptional and that porting will basically only give you more mid range power but not really any top end power.

Any other feedback?

any work done to your head will be major $$, if you have the right tools, you can do it at home. its not terribly hard if you know what your doing.

other than that, getting your head rebuilt, wont give you intense gains in power, you can always run more boost if you want, your engine can handle it.

the furthest i would go with cams for street driveable would be 272 cams at pure max. unless you like sounding like a tractor or need little to no power low down....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe but doubt it, when I jacked it up it was creaking in the j arm again. The inners are all good, I inspected them. Remember that also it did fix the problem but temporarily.
    • Could be the other bushes. The inners.
    • Once you lose the adjustable bushes, you have almost no adjustment at the front for anything that matters. You can only wind so master caster at the front, and ~7° is fine. You won't have choice of front camber. If you only have rear camber arms (ie, do not also have adjustable upper tension arms), you shouldn't change their length very much, because you will introduce bump steer. And, you will struggle to find a workshop that will be capable of doing all the adjustment work necessary to simultaneously achieve a decent rear camber number, get the toe right, and minimise bump steer. I would guess there's probably 8 hours of work there. So, stockish rear camber is fine. Although, keep in mind, that stock camber, by number value, does not mean stock arm length when the car is lowered. You will need to lengthen the RUCA to get back to stockish values and that will require the tension arm to be lengthened a little also. Without any other guidance, any change made to the RUCA should have the 2/3 of the same change made on the tension arm. But that is only a rough rule of thumb and the relationship might not remain linear across a wide range of adjustments. And it might not also be as close to minimum bump steer as you could achieve if you did the bump steer measurement and adjustment properly.
    • Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.
    • FD RX7 I would probably marry if legal R32 GTR is toughest NSX looks like it's made from leftover Prelude and Accord bits  
×
×
  • Create New...