Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just little things like a turbo beanie a turbosmart dual port plumb back BOV hks adjustable cam gears and fine tuning timing belt a bosch z32 afm gotta bmc direct air intake filter kit cos I reckon my arc airbox is drinkin hot engine bay air 550cc sard injectors a malpassi FPR Many metres of header wrap and the wider exhaust wrap. I think thats everything lol

Just little things like a turbo beanie a turbosmart dual port plumb back BOV hks adjustable cam gears and fine tuning timing belt a bosch z32 afm gotta bmc direct air intake filter kit cos I reckon my arc airbox is drinkin hot engine bay air 550cc sard injectors a malpassi FPR Many metres of header wrap and the wider exhaust wrap. I think thats everything lol

Could you please post a pic of the BMC air intake?

ive tried putting pics up here countless times and no matter how much i compress the picture its too big!

sorry mate ill try again but im sure ill get the same result

Could you please post a pic of the BMC air intake?

External and AEM EMS controls the boost. The saga for him to get to this point.gtx3076

After trawling through a pile of pages here is the page which shows the result from the GTX3076 on pump and race fuel (the posted dyno previously was race fuel).

http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb-tech/105515-550rwhp-rb25det-my-build-55.html#post1649335

The GTX3076 looks like an expensive GT3040.

The GTX3071 on paper should flow enough to cover a GT3076 if the turbine can pass enough exhaust which is the question mark with a non-garrett turbine housing.

Yeah i cant wait to see the results i know im still gunna be happy either way because my baby 203kw feels good on the street! so surely the 250kw at the worst is gunna feel pretty darn good and if i dont get the power ill run e85 anyways as im still toying with the idea cos im liking the smell and the lack of black stuff all over the back of my white car and if i ever get put over the pits im sure my car will pass an emissions test!

Ive been considering selling my 550cc sards im wondering what are the biggest injectors i can put in my standard fuel rail are? for

After trawling through a pile of pages here is the page which shows the result from the GTX3076 on pump and race fuel (the posted dyno previously was race fuel).

http://www.240sxforu...tml#post1649335

The GTX3076 looks like an expensive GT3040.

The GTX3071 on paper should flow enough to cover a GT3076 if the turbine can pass enough exhaust which is the question mark with a non-garrett turbine housing.

Thanks wolverine yeah i have a servo around the corner that sells it and apparently all the cops around here in the Hawkesbury are running on it so its a reliable source im lead to believe so might try flogging my 550cc sards

740's might be better for E85 but unless you have some easy way to switch tunes E85 is a tough one to use day to day unless you have a servo around the corner.

Jez will get you a good result so all the best from here.

Thanks wolverine yeah i have a servo around the corner that sells it and apparently all the cops around here in the Hawkesbury are running on it so its a reliable source im lead to believe so might try flogging my 550cc sards

how much for the sards :)

Edited by SliverS2

After trawling through a pile of pages here is the page which shows the result from the GTX3076 on pump and race fuel (the posted dyno previously was race fuel).

http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb-tech/105515-550rwhp-rb25det-my-build-55.html#post1649335

The GTX3076 looks like an expensive GT3040.

The GTX3071 on paper should flow enough to cover a GT3076 if the turbine can pass enough exhaust which is the question mark with a non-garrett turbine housing.

You are actually very close on airflow with the GTX3076R and a 56T GT3040R like you have .

It's also interesting to compare the compressor maps of the GTX3071R and the original GT3076R 56T , the 71X has very slightly higher ie 1% adiabatic efficiency but the original 76Rs center island is fractionaly wider and a tad to the left of the Xs . I compared these along the 2 bar line , remember this means absolute pressure so 2 bar here is 1 bar above sea level air pressure , because 15 pounds is not an unrealistic number for starters .

Sorry to be a grinch but these GTX compressors don't look that good on paper to me especially in the T04E and T04S compressor housings . I think the 52 or 56 trim GT37 (76.2mm) compressor is comparable to the GTX71 and as Andrew said its debatable if the GT30 compressor is adequate to drive the GTX76 compressor wheel given it looks to flow similar numbers to the 82mm 56T GT40 compressor wheel . I wouldn't even bother to look at a GTX3582R because the T04S compressor housing is a bit limiting even for the 82mm GT40 compressor wheels air flow capability .

The high points of the Xs seem to be high pressure ratio (boost) efficiency but over a relatively narrow range , and also they're supposed to be quieter in port shrouded compressor housings .

I suspect that they would work better in larger comp housings and with larger turbines in diesel applications .

A .

^ That is pretty much what I said when I first read over the GTX series compressor maps, the only one I held any hope for was the GTX3071R on the premise that it should be able to perform similar to the GT3076R in most cases with a little more transient response from less inertia, though as it turns out from testimonies from people who have drive GT and GTX equivalents, the response actually does reduce a bit meaning even that may be a bit of a waste of time.

On the flip side, I have heard of some really impressive power results from GTX3582Rs when more exotic fuels than run of the mill gasoline are used - so if one was going to head down that path, they could show some worth there. I've still not seen any results from a GTX30-series turbo under real duress, but maybe they could still have surprises up their sleeves.

Think i should mention that boostn imports has a great price for a kit that bolts up to the standard dump pipe and factory headers with sonic braided lines $2638 delivered to sydney!!!! SPECIAL!!!!!!!!!

An aquatintence of mine got that kit and was less than impressed with it, was missing lots of bits.

Hmmmmmmm i hope my kit aint like that :rant:

was he pissed bout just the lack of parts to install it?

Or its performance once bolted in?

An aquatintence of mine got that kit and was less than impressed with it, was missing lots of bits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...