Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys as some of you may have read from another post I created I have been having issued with my cars ABS SLIP VDC lights coming on the dash

The problem is intermittent in that sometimes "rarely" I could do a whole drive to Brisbane from the Gold Coast without the lights coming on. Where as other times when the ABS dose its self check usually once the car has been turned on and gotten up to 10kph it will then start pumping the pedal and make lots of noises from the front drivers side whilst at the same time the speedo wont be moving or is not displaying the proper speed.

The problem has become progressively worse over time

I was told by the local brake shop who hooked up a scan tool to the car that the front drivers side ABS speed sensor was throwing a fault code.

So I got a 2nd hand one off a 350Z from a wrecking yard posted up to me, I switched the sensor over last night and took the car for a 400M drive around the block and everything seemed to be going perfect, ABS was working and no funny noises

Anyhow in the morning when I went to work I got no further than the end of the street "100m" before the lights came back on as the pedal started making its funny noises

I noticed when I changed the sensor last night that it might read the speed of the wheel by magnetic fields or something as there was no COG/gear just a flat bit of metal that sits close to the inside of the wheel hub/baring

I also noticed it looked rather rusty/dirty where the wheel hub/thing was spinning near the sensor so I am going to pull it off again in the next day or to and try and scrape/clean some of the crap off and see if that fixes the problem

I was so pissed off after having switched the parts and thinking that everything was going to be FINALLY sorted particularly after the drive around the block. If I didint install the sensor properly one would think that the warning lights would come on straight away when the car was turned on/driven around the block

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375249-abs-speed-sensor-vdc-abs-slip/
Share on other sites

Hey

Sorry to hear about your woes mate. Ifeel ya

I had a similar problem with my car when i first got it. When i scanned it, it reports that the wheel speed sensors are faulty.

Had a mechanic look at them and turned out it was just loose and dirty. So give it a clean when you can then see how you go.

Maybe the replacement sensors themselves are no good? Get the part number and post it here so i can help you look up prices.

Also, if it still happens afterwards, try to swap the sensors around from left to right to troubleshoot it.

i am having similar issues i have resently fitted extractors, high flow cats, and disconnected the battery so as to do a system reset and as i took off after the front wheels started to lock up but only when i had turned my steering the slip flashed than i breaked and it stoped flashing drove forward again and it happened again than the vdc was illuminated and slip also. pissing me off so much, so now i have to disengage vdc before i go any where once engine has been switched off.

but if i start up and drive in a straight line the slip and vdc become illuminated, there fore no traction control on. any ideas and these sensors where are they? thanks

Well I not sure why your having that problem, Im thinking that I might pay a visit to Gavin wood in the not too distant future as he has all the fancy scan tools to work out what exactly is going on Im thinking that you might have to do the same or go to a willing Nissan dealer and have them plug in whatever their tool is "consolt" I think is what its called

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...