Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righto I used the search function already and I couldn't find a answer so I am putting it out there.

So I will be driving my 33 along and the hicas light will come on, then I lose my power steering. It mostly happens tho when I go for a drive and stop somewhere say for example to get fuel, when I turn the car back on the hicas light will be on and I have no power steering... My power steering fluid is full and does not leak at all.

I dont know exactly how hicas works but I am under impression it runs of the power steering pump some how... When I park the car over night the power steering has come back..

Any ideas?

had that issue with mine. Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel fitted? or the stock nissan item. because i've heard the stock one has steering angle sensors.

the r33 hicas steering rack is electronic, so could be something to do with it.. i had an aftermarket steerer, and the hicas light was always on, and steering was heavy.. on random occations the light would turn off and steering would be light again..

hicas is over rated anyway :P

check the hicas ecu in the boot, under the parcel shelf below the driver's side speaker.

i had the same problem. Swapped the ecu for a working one. problem solved.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
    • I was chatting with an ex SAU person who is involved in chooning euros now. He was saying the factory cars like Audi VW etc have something like 2000 tables that the ECU uses for getting everything "just right". Compare that back to any aftermarket ECU, and you'd be hard pressed to surpass 50 lookup tables. Even the Ford Barra engine has a few hundred lookup tables to run it (and they're still working some tables out too!)
    • Grab a temp probe, and probe each exhaust inlet runner with it sitting idling. Each one should be pretty darn close to the same temp. If you've got some reading higher or lower than the others, it's likely either air flow isn't equal, or your injectors aren't equal to each other.   The other things to check, is from the wiring changes that were made, were any earth's or grounds moved/changed.   Lastly, for the strut brace issue. It's not perfect, but can you get away with slipping a washer or two under the strut brace to raise it, and it still clean the bonnet? If you can, work out the height you need, that the motor can't torque up into, and get a spacer made for each side.
×
×
  • Create New...