Jump to content
SAU Community

Camry Engine/box Reliability

Galois

By Galois,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Flame suit on.

Okay, so had bought a reliable car, a 2000 magna, auto. And the auto box died with the semi-common failure of a wave spring deep in the box. It's been off the road for 3 weeks while I've sourced a cheap, second hand reco'd gearbox and had it shipped from Melbourne. Given I have no car and the magna needs to be towed to a mechanic for the transplant, it could be 2 more weeks before I get the box to the car and get the mechanic to fit it.

So, again, looking at a reliable car, to buy asap cos I'm so sick of not having one. I've owned camrys before and they've been pretty damn reliable given the neglect they've received from me and my family (before my automotive enlightenment).

Does anyone know how the 3.0L engine compares to the 2.2L, and the manual compares to the auto, in terms of reliability in 1996-2000 camrys?

A long shot, I know, but I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge on these forums on a daily basis.

Cheers all :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375256-camry-enginebox-reliability/
Share on other sites
Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers mate. Yeah, our family had a '94 camry for a lot of years, likewise a '98 one. Both auto 2.2L and both were very reliable (except for some small oil leak that dripped onto and destroyed the timing belt on the '94 one before I owned it).

I'm looking for a manual v6, as long as the reliability is still there and the price is right. Just want something that goes, is safe and is reliable. Then to save for a fun car again banana.gif

Edited by Galois
Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Depends on kms, location etc. Seem to be under 5k for what I'm after. Magna is the other car, which would be a significantly better buy in terms of power/riding the wave of torque (300 Nm). Some autos are a bit of a time bomb, I'm one of the unlucky ones apparently.

A manual 3rd gen magna with either the 3.0L or 3.5L engine is a real surprise. My brother recently got a manual 2002 magna, 3.5L, with a new clutch, brakes and new suspension, a parana chip (whatever that is) and a tune for 4.5k and it is an absolute beast of torque. The new suspension makes a world of difference too. He's gonna need to upgrade the clutch soon lol.

I'm thinking of getting something like that as the next car, if we sell the auto magna. Ahh, one day i'll have a propper sports car again lol, atm I'm just aiming for a running car.

Edited by Galois
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

yeah manual magnas are great (i've owned 2 3.5L ones, pretty sure i've discussed this with you in the past).

as for the v6 camry, i don't know much about them but i would think that being a camry it should be pretty reliable as they aren't really commonly bought by younger people so there is much less chance it's had a hard life. probably the biggest issue is more if it's been owned by someone who doesn't get it serviced as often as they should

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, I should have gone with a manual one! Will again one day, prolly a vrx.

There's also the issue of dreamers who think their sh!thouse cars are worth as much as a premium one, oh wait that's an issue with all second hand car buying

fastjetjockey Collaborator

fastjetjockey

Posted
Posted

My folks had a '94 2.2L Auto. Was never thrashed and was kelt serviced by my old man who's a mechanic (auto trans) by trade.

Two head gaskets over 2 years. Once with a rebuild. I sold it for them, blown, for $800. Hated that bloody thing.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

my gf has a avalon 1M-FE (i think) 3 litre V6 auto . . has 200,000ks on the clock and doesnt seem to want to stop, all weve had to do is have the rocker cover gaskets changed + regular servicing and minor stuff like brake pads (easy to do yourself)and parts are cheap and plentifull. . . .bloke over here in the west dropped a (aftermarket) turbo version in his MR2 , goes like hell

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

my gf has the 1M-FE (i think) V6 3 litre auto in her avalon . . good economical motor with no issues, cheap parts, easy to fix, just a bit hard to access anything on the back of the motor

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted

We ended up getting a 2000 model auto v6, and couldn't be happier with the buy. The suspension is still firm, the power is all there, easily blasting along without going above 3k rpm. Had the trailer on it yesterday and it was fine, almost like itbwasnt there. Its got 190k (major service every 150 thou, not 100), but of the half dozen we tested over the weekend, all with much lower km, it was by far the best.

Doesn't white have the torque of the 3.5 magna, but the build.quality and comfort seems much better

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Not sure which model Camry (V6 models only) - but keep an eye on the knock sensors, crank angle sensor and waterpump.

Always use toyota genuine coolant.

Apparently the variable intake length manifold may play up, which may cause the car to fell a little sluggish, but will not cause you to break down.

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not sure which model Camry (V6 models only) - but keep an eye on the knock sensors, crank angle sensor and waterpump.

Always use toyota genuine coolant.

Apparently the variable intake length manifold may play up, which may cause the car to fell a little sluggish, but will not cause you to break down.

Hmmm, how exactly do I keep an eye on them? Watch for the engine light and listen for knocking? How would I notice if the variable length intake manifold (didn't know it had one btw lol) is playing up? Sorry for the qs.

how much did you pay?

$4700, I'm imagining we'll be using this car for a long long time though. It's so comfortable, easily enough grunt to pull a trailer on a freeway, just nice to cruise in. I just have to make sure to keep up the amorall and waxing etc to keep it in good shape. Will probably change all fluids over the next 20k km, just so I know what's in there. Might be worth putting a transmission cooler on too.

How's the soarer going?

xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
Posted

pretty good. i've gotten used to the r154, its a little clunky, but you learn to deal with it. i'll have to do the timing belts soon though. and i haven't fixed my speed sensor. so i get lottery numbers at speeds above 70kmh. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... šŸ˜›
    • vas
      šŸšØ Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report šŸšØ

      By vas · Posted

      I need help dealing with an engineer who is massively overcharging me for an engineering report on my modified, written-off Jeep to get it roadworthy. šŸ”¹ Initially, he quoted me $3,500 - $4,500. šŸ”¹ First invoice: $5,315 (already above the quote). šŸ”¹ Second invoice: $1,375. šŸ”¹ Now, he has sent another invoice for $3,100! This is way more than double what I was originally quoted. I feel like Iā€™m being ripped off. Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What can I do? Any advice on how to report him or fight these unfair charges? Would really appreciate any guidance! šŸ™ Am in Adelaide.
    • PranK
      Best Skyline ever

      By PranK · Posted

      I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • PranK
      Best Skyline ever

      By PranK · Posted

      Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • GTSBoy
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
Ɨ
Ɨ
  • Create New...