Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone...

we if you seen my past thread about my brothers car (r33 gtst) and how the engine died well it had a hole in piston number six, tonight we swaped the avc-r boost controller from that car to my other brothers car (r33 gtst) and we took it for a strap.... max boost we put it in was 1bar but it was reading 12psi (due to duty cycle etc) but as we were driving it suddenly cut out and the engine it died.. when we pulled up it started sounds like the car thats already blown up.. white smoke an piston number 6 is full of oil!! so is the spark plug. so we have no idear what has happened here except to question the avc-r.... the same avc-r has blown up 2 rb25det engines (piston number six) ?

could this be a fault in the system ?

what should you surgest we do ?

Thanks,

Cam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37527-bad-news-another-dead-skyline/
Share on other sites

ermm did have another boost gauge apart from looking or reading the out put of the AVC-R.... if the reading is from another boost guage and the reading from the AVCR is the same then there should not be problem with wiring... if you dont have a boost guage then MAY BE you are receiving wrong information..... i always dont trust boost reading from a boost controller...

Hey everyone...

what should you surgest we do ?

Thanks,

Cam

1. Buy a used engine off these forums (MattR has a couple at the right price).

2. install a GTR / Bosch fuel pump

3. Replace fuel filter & plugs at the correct g a p

4. Get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned

5. Get aftermarket engine management

6.Get it tuned by a pro, on a dyno !!!

If it's a stock turbo it won't live very long at 1 bar pressure. Expect it to throw the exhaust wheel into the cat, destroying it, and potentially being spat back into a valve and.... why am I so unlucky....... engine #4...

Educate yourself about your particular vehicle. Then you can modify it -effectively- that's the whole point of these forums.

Stock RB25's just won't take sustained detonation. End of story.

yeh it might of been running lean... as on the dyno it was running 30:1 afr at 14psi. but it was only running 11-12psi on boost guage and avc-r so it shouldnt have leand too much. but i think cause the avc-r ran propper boost throught it and it was on 12psi at 3000k all the way to redline, and engine couldnt handle it.

some advice get a fuel pump before boosting your car !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...