Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Couldnt really find the answer to this question. Ive already got a built motor but it has a standard harmonic balancer on it with a chunk taken out of the end. Now from what i know alot of motors need the bottom end to be balanced with the balancer and can only be changed with getting built. My question is will my motor need to be pulled apart before the " dampener " get changed as i know the balancers are just dampeners to remove viabrations from the bottom end. Or can i bolt on a ati or Ross balancer onto the motor as is?

Sorry if it isnt the best of questions

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375494-harmonic-balancer/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Couldnt really find the answer to this question. Ive already got a built motor but it has a standard harmonic balancer on it with a chunk taken out of the end. Now from what i know alot of motors need the bottom end to be balanced with the balancer and can only be changed with getting built. My question is will my motor need to be pulled apart before the " dampener " get changed as i know the balancers are just dampeners to remove viabrations from the bottom end. Or can i bolt on a ati or Ross balancer onto the motor as is?

Sorry if it isnt the best of questions

Thanks for your help

ATI / Ross balancers are neutral balance Dave. You can put them on to your motor as is.

Edited by R32 TT

The balancers main function really in my opinion is to protect the oil pump (the gears in particular), N1 balancers are an option on a budget (middleground between a stocker and a aftermarket balancer)

The balancers main function really in my opinion is to protect the oil pump (the gears in particular), N1 balancers are an option on a budget (middleground between a stocker and a aftermarket balancer)

Not precisely. Yes it helps protect the oil pump, but it really does bugger all job of protecting it, especially if its 10+ years old. They are a serviceable item, they should be replaced ideally every 100,000km or so.

Their main function is to 'try' and eliminate as many crankshaft harmonics that are created by the engines internal forces. Inevitable with a reciprocating engine - The inline 6 is one of the worst engines for harmonics. The higher the revs, the worse the harmonic issue becomes, Rotaries are far less harmonic.

As well as trying to delete harmonics, they also act as a pulley to drive accessories.

If you have a built engine, and your using a stock design pump and you'll be seeing high RPM constantly. Ideally you should have had the crank shaft/flywheel/clutch pressure plate balanced. And then fitted an ATi balancer at the end. As said earlier, these DONT get balanced as they are already factory zero balanced.

There's a fair bit of info around on this, i spend weeks gathering all the info i needed before buying one. Had no real consideration for harmonic balancers a year ago. But in a high performance engine, especially an inline 6, they come into play, massively. and a 15 year old one doesn't cut it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett
    • I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
    • Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.
×
×
  • Create New...