Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone i didn't know if i should post this in the turbo upgrade sticky, but i didn't upgrade my turbos. so i decided to add it here.

i have attached 2 dyno graphs one with standard AFM and one with Z32 AFM. i did this so new people can see how much power they can get for this modification. But remember this is how much i gained on my car, every car is different depending on mods/age/worn engine ect.... But in my instance i gained 17rwkw from adding Z32AFM to my car. Hope this helps you in deciding what mods you wanna do to your car in the future :thumbsup:.

post-43204-0-55158000-1314581997_thumb.jpg

post-43204-0-31284500-1314582013_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/
Share on other sites

Isn't this just standard AFM pushed to max then putting a better AFM on with a larger scope and tuning to suit and getting more power

I don't think if you had for example 190rwkw you would necessarily gain power just by adding a Z32 AFM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5989764
Share on other sites

You should find that the z32 air flow meters will give you a larger tuning resolution that the stock ones,

but there really is no way that the Z32 AFM's can give you a power increase on their own.

The stock AFM's will run out of resolution/max out and have no more Voltage range to give at approx 300rwkw, i have had this exactly on my own car, then the Z32's are installed to give tuning resolution past this mark.

The power gain you have shown is most likely because of a diferent day on the dyno, some other modification you performed, or most likely it is running a bit leaner on boost or have more ignition timing.

Not having a go at you, just letting you and others know, that AFM's, just like upgrading fuel pumps and injectors will not give any power increase, but they will support more power.

The only other way a pair of Z32's will give more power on their own would be if the stock 65mm AFM size was restricting the motor and the 80mm size allowed the engine to breath better. The Nismo AFM's are 65mm though, with the tuning resolution of the Z32 AFM, so really, unless we are looking at 550+rwkw, i cant see that being the case :thumbsup:.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5989781
Share on other sites

Yeah Z32 won't give you more power.

Any extra power would come from tune adjustments, boost, dyno variance etc.

Could even be the old AFM's were on the way out for instance. Or you had a minor leak, so replacing/refitting piping removed that etc. Plenty of reasons why there is more power - the AFM's though ain't one of them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5989816
Share on other sites

Hence i'm showing that having Z32AFM would give you more potential to make more power over stock items, off course to make the extra power you would need a proper dyno tune and other mods (that's why i added the mods done listed on 1st graph).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990155
Share on other sites

No you said: "how much power people can get from this modification".

That is distinctly different to "give you more potential to make more power ".

The AFM swap did not give you power. Something else did.

It's common knowledge a Z32 or Nismo AFM will 'read' more air than a stock AFM.

Either way @ 250rwkw, your stock AFMs were not maxed out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990177
Share on other sites

Hello everyone i didn't know if i should post this in the turbo upgrade sticky, but i didn't upgrade my turbos. so i decided to add it here.

i have attached 2 dyno graphs one with standard AFM and one with Z32 AFM. i did this so new people can see how much power they can get for this modification. But remember this is how much i gained on my car, every car is different depending on mods/age/worn engine ect.... But in my instance i gained 17rwkw from adding Z32AFM to my car. Hope this helps you in deciding what mods you wanna do to your car in the future :thumbsup:.

Just that part there may have been a poor choice of words. I get what your saying

But the way you put it just sounds like you mean "Put a Z32 AFM on and you'll get more power"

Question but for the more experienced users on here:

Say for a 150rwkw Skyline with a Power FC, just as an example - Would having a standard AFM be better then a Z32 as the resoloution isnt spread out so much? Or am I completely misunderstanding the idea behind this

The way I see it, if you have a 20x20 map on a stock AFM thats good for 150kw (I'm just using a random figure), then you have a 20x20 map with a Z32 AFM map thats good for 300kw (again hypothetical figure). You've got so many more cells to tune the amount of airflow for 150kw as its using all the cells rather then just half on the Z32.

This is just a question, as I've thought about this for a while and this is how I see it, I know that the Power FC intorpolates the 'in between' data, but still would be interesting to know if my assumption is right

Also thought the same applied for injectors? Get stupidly large injectors and you'll have plenty of room to breathe, but lose a bit of the fine tuning

Or am I completly wrong :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990184
Share on other sites

Hence i'm showing that having Z32AFM would give you more potential to make more power over stock items, off course to make the extra power you would need a proper dyno tune and other mods (that's why i added the mods done listed on 1st graph).

Well... Yeh, obviously lol.

This is like saying you had maxed your stock injectors at 200rwkw so you upgraded your injectors and now make 300rwkw, therefore the injectors gave you an additional 100rwkw. In reality it didn't, it was the other things you modified that gave you the power increase.

I'm not sure what you were trying to show by posting this? I mean is that not the exact reason everyone upgrades their AFM, because they have maxed their stock item?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990185
Share on other sites

Question but for the more experienced users on here:

Say for a 150rwkw Skyline with a Power FC, just as an example - Would having a standard AFM be better then a Z32 as the resoloution isnt spread out so much? Or am I completely misunderstanding the idea behind this

The way I see it, if you have a 20x20 map on a stock AFM thats good for 150kw (I'm just using a random figure), then you have a 20x20 map with a Z32 AFM map thats good for 300kw (again hypothetical figure). You've got so many more cells to tune the amount of airflow for 150kw as its using all the cells rather then just half on the Z32.

This is just a question, as I've thought about this for a while and this is how I see it, I know that the Power FC intorpolates the 'in between' data, but still would be interesting to know if my assumption is right

Also thought the same applied for injectors? Get stupidly large injectors and you'll have plenty of room to breathe, but lose a bit of the fine tuning

Or am I completly wrong :thumbsup:

if you set up the power fc to suit yes you would have more accuracy with a standard afm, but you'd be lucky to notice any difference. the afm voltage and power fc load points arent linear either, its exponential. for example, on the power fc base map for a rb25 the last load point (p20) is double p15 and nearly 4 times p10. its set up this way to give more accurate tuning under light load. also you can adjust the load points to suit but the base settings (which almost everyone uses until they max them) arent scaled to suit the standard afm, they suit up to and over 300rwkw without any resolution problems.

as for injectors the only reason you lose fine tuning is if the injectors cant atomize properly at idle and low load or if the ecu/injector drivers arent capable of opening them for short periods with enough accuracy. with a good ecu and decent injectors (id2000s for example) you can have the car idling at the same AFR's and with the same quality as standard injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990413
Share on other sites

No you said: "how much power people can get from this modification".

That is distinctly different to "give you more potential to make more power ".

The AFM swap did not give you power. Something else did.

It's common knowledge a Z32 or Nismo AFM will 'read' more air than a stock AFM.

Either way @ 250rwkw, your stock AFMs were not maxed out.

what about if it were a r33 gtst, would the z32 be better than a stock afm, at what power output would the z32 be best to use?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990442
Share on other sites

what about if it were a r33 gtst, would the z32 be better than a stock afm, at what power output would the z32 be best to use?

no, the Z32 AFM is not better than the stock GTST afm. Both are 3 or 4 wire, hotwire Air flow meters that are 80mm in size.

The Z32 AFM allows for a wider tuning scale but it does zero to add more rwkw or average power etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990570
Share on other sites

no, the Z32 AFM is not better than the stock GTST afm. Both are 3 or 4 wire, hotwire Air flow meters that are 80mm in size.

The Z32 AFM allows for a wider tuning scale but it does zero to add more rwkw or average power etc.

so say for example, i was at a power level between say 200 and 250kw, would using the z32 give the dyno graph a fatter curve or /more accurate or steeper curve than the standard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375532-dyno-tune/#findComment-5990587
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...