Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Moving interstate need to sell. 92000 kms. Serviced every 5k at Clark racing. I am the first aus owner. Bought from jsa in melb last year. Clutch replaced late last year. Split fire coil packs. Blitz front mount. Manual boost tee ( 10 psi ) apexi afc neo. Walbro high flow fuel pump. White in colour. Few stone chips. Average head unit. Needs new speakers. Asking 11000. 0467515388.... Good condition. Will upload pics soon. Located launnie. Benny.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375605-1996-r33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Selling Car due to moving interstate.

This car was first registered in Australia last year. I am the first Australian owner. Therefore no accident history. I purchased this car from JSA imports. This car is very tidy and straight. Serviced every 5000km's at Clark racing, They have told me that they would recommend my car to anyone looking to buy a skyline. This car hasn't given me any trouble at all. This car has a few light mods.

Momo race steering wheel

Enkei Circular rims 17x7 (front) and 17x8 (rear) - $1000

600HP Walbro Fuel Pump - $200

Spitfire Coilpacks - $700

4 Inch cat back exhaust - 5 inch tip $450

Front Sway bar $100

Blitz front mount intercooler kit $750

afc neo apexi fuel system $470 (Tuned at Clark Racing)

turbosmart boost guage/cup $55

turbo smart boost tee $99

HKS mushroom air filter set up $65

Turbosmart vee port blow off valve $200 (Not Fitted)

Tyres are in good condition. Paintwork is good, there are a few chips here and there. Clutch was also replaced last year.

Need a quick sale. This car cost me alot more to purchase only 8 months ago. Horn is not working. Has a lose wire in there somewhere. Will most likely have this fixed before sale.

Located in Launceston Tasmania.

Please text or call 0467515388 (work monday to friday 7am - 5pm )

This car is advertised elsewere.

Please no stupid offers. I want $11000 firm.

post-73397-0-10333400-1314691335_thumb.jpg

post-73397-0-82439400-1314691410_thumb.jpg

Edited by Wubzy =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...