Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A few weeks ago I had the local hand car wash wash my GTR....

when I got home I noticed the rear GTR badge red section (centre of the R) was bent and had a chunk of sponge under it.

So...I call the closest GTR dealer to organise a new badge

Me: I would like to order the rear GTR badge for my R35

Nissan: no problem...in stock in Melbourne...2 day delivery to Sydney

Me: OK..can I use my credit card to pay for it

Nissan: yes

Me: (reads out CC number)

Nissan: thankyou sir...will call you when it arrives

Me: Ok...BTW...how much are they

Nissan: four hundred and ninety two dollars and eighty cents

Me: OK...cancel that

Ok, I know that we pay a lot of "GTR tax" for parts but 500 bucks for plastic badge is stupid..

So. I got to Japanparts.com

http://www.japanpart...&maker=&VOLKEY=

About $100 each delivered...I ordered 2 and they arrived today...genuine Nissan

I have purchased a few parts in the last few years from Japanparts...recommend them.

Kev

ImageFromDBphp.jpg

Edited by Speedah
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375636-dont-mess-with-the-gtr-badge/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  On 29/08/2011 at 4:03 PM, mikeyR33-T said:

thanks very handy, what do ppl think about gtr badges on gtst :P

I saw coppers writing up a ticket for a GTST parked in a loading zone outside Coles in Diamond Creek one night. It was after hours and a place where everyone parks, so I thought it was a bit tough.

Then I saw it had a GTR badge on it so I told them to book him twice.

  On 29/08/2011 at 4:03 PM, mikeyR33-T said:

thanks very handy, what do ppl think about gtr badges on gtst :P

dear god no!

your car is a GTS25+T

only losers put GTR badges on NON-GTRs

or me that put a NON-GTR badge on my deliberately ridiculous 4 door :P

  On 30/08/2011 at 3:59 AM, ON EDGE said:

you think thats bad the spec v brake pads are priced at $36,000AUD off memory lmao

I find that very hard to believe.

Maybe for a complete brake set, ie. discs, calipers, pads, lines, booster, pedal, ABS unit and so on. And even then I'd be surprised if all that was $36k.

  On 30/08/2011 at 9:15 AM, Cowboy1600 said:

I find that very hard to believe.

Maybe for a complete brake set, ie. discs, calipers, pads, lines, booster, pedal, ABS unit and so on. And even then I'd be surprised if all that was $36k.

I'm pretty sure that's the unbelievably expensive Carbon Ceramic option ON EDGE is referring to.

Wasn't the full set-up somewhere north of $60k? Everyone else seems to manange it for $20k to $40ish?

  • 2 weeks later...
  On 29/08/2011 at 11:00 PM, Cowboy1600 said:

I saw coppers writing up a ticket for a GTST parked in a loading zone outside Coles in Diamond Creek one night. It was after hours and a place where everyone parks, so I thought it was a bit tough.

Then I saw it had a GTR badge on it so I told them to book him twice.

should of been de-registered and the owner ordered to drive a kia only

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...