Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Then R35 hands down.

Unless there is something about the R34 that you really must have????

I guess the performance of R35 is in a different league to the 34,

however............... i would still love to own a R34 as well! :)

Its just the raw sexyness and reputation and that keeps bringing me back to the R34.

Yes, Ive also heard you have to dump tens of thousands in to A R34 to bring it up to match the R35 performance.

But I want a R34 as close to standard as possible and I'll hold on to it. Already getting hard to find one which hasnt been 2 worked.

Stock for stock, the 34 is nowhere near the level of a 35.

The 35 is also the only car that has put a smile on my face without a clutch pedal, going from 35 back to an rb model you really feel the age of the 'old' gtr's.

For reference a stock 35 gtr does tsukuba in same time as z tune 34, which is regarded as the best goin street 34.

34 wins on price an maintenance though, unless u do it up you will not have maintenance costs like u see from r35.

For everything else, but pointless back seats, the 35 wins imo. So easy to drive, so fast, no lag, torque in any gear ( an amount you can only dream of from a rb ) great handling etc.

If money is not a problem I'd pick a r35 if I was you, the hype on them is well justified!!!

What cars are you coming from?

Hello, R33 GTR, R33 S2 GTST, 5x R34 GT-T, V35, Evo VII, Mercedes W211 E500, 350Z convertible, 350Z coupe. Thats all i can think of at the moment.

What i observed is the older nissan cars I've owned seemed 2 be better build quality than my newer nissans that ive had.

With my V35 and both of my 350z's I was getting sick of the power window faults, central locking faults, weak gearbox synchros, tears in the roof of the convertible - etc. All from design faults and sh*t parts. And u replace them with genuine spares which are also sh*t parts and its only a matter of time before it happens again.

With R34 u know the design faults already (stuff like rust around boot brake light). Im hoping that these similar issues i mentioned above dont pop up in the R35 over the next few years.

But R35 is such a sexy car aswell, they look fantastic every time i see them.

1318288390[/url]' post='6054986']

as a hobbiest detailer i couldnt fathom having my cars washed by low paid indian students, but then again everyone has diff priorities in life and some have other things to do instead of busting out the karcher etc on a weekend

nor would i simply high pressure the panels and then wipe all the dirt into the super soft nissan clear coat with a shamwow

op if you want someone to look after your car, shoot me a pm, i can recommend you a mobile detailer in your state who will do an at home wash

Would it be okay if they were low paid white-skinned students dominoz?

Its just the raw sexyness and reputation and that keeps bringing me back to the R34.

Yes, Ive also heard you have to dump tens of thousands in to A R34 to bring it up to match the R35 performance.

But I want a R34 as close to standard as possible and I'll hold on to it. Already getting hard to find one which hasnt been 2 worked.

much respect to the R34 but you need a ride in the R35 - its godlike in every way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
    • Hi all, I thought I'd put one of these references in here before but it seems I haven't - not sure how many people are actually using this place still but I feel like there are guys lurking about who might find this reference useful or interesting.  A lot of the time people don't catch key details or even fully understand how compressor maps work - or don't even look at them and just go from heresay about deciding how different turbos may compare, but I've been putting together this table over the years as a quick reference to get a gauge of how certain compressors compare to cut down the time that can be wasted looking around aimlessly. * This relates purely to compressor flow, so won't necessarily reflect the outright capabilities of these turbos as the power potential also comes down to the turbine side.  If you understand this, you should be able to use this 😃 * The inducer and exducer size listed are the mm of just the compressor wheel * The values under the "psi" headings are "lb/min airflow" and reflect the maximum airflow that compressor supports before it's efficiency dips under 65%, or it reaches it's maximum speed - whichever comes first. Any questions, or requests for other turbos which the compressor map is available for then let me know 🙂
    • And what you pay for a pack of 8 bolts and nuts at Bunnings, will land me 200 of the same nuts and bolts from a fastener shop.   M12 * 1.25 IS a standard. It's not like ordering M12x1.25 and hoping the thread pitch is right. Unlike ordering an ounce, will get you 4 different amounts depending on which ounce someone takes it to be. Your issue is a supply issue.
    • Try using Penrite 80W140, has Limslip predosed into it 
×
×
  • Create New...