Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey.. I'm planning on installing aftermarket bovs (blitz super sound dd) soon but I just wanted to check if installing them on a gtr tuned using a pfc with stock bovs will cause any dramas.

I've heard there could be stalling issues

Anyone with any thoughts/prior experiences?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375822-installing-aftermarket-bovs/
Share on other sites

I've used an atmo bov with my power fc and i think one issue is that the stock bovs are usually slightly open at idle which avoids turbo shuffling and potentially upsetting afm signals. Mine shuffled a lot when I put the atmo bov on (running the power fc) and had it tight enough to be necessarily closed at idle, plus I had some compressor surge at lower flow rates which really messed with the afm signal and therefore the afr's- I think the stock bovs would have alleviated this. The issues disappeared when I went to map sensor based ecu, and then being able to soften the bov spring to allow it to open at idle got rid of the shuffling. My feeling is that the stockers would be the most trouble free option with afm based ecu.

Edited by doo doo

i like my ppssh sound :)

plus i got a good price so decided to put them on... been driving around with the stockers for a while and I kinda miss the sound... each to their own

thought there would be stalling issues... ill get em put on when the haltech goes on

can the GTR stock BOV be run as atmo?

i got a haltech ecu running map sensor so i wont have issues with the AFM not liking it or stalling.

the blitz BOV i got installed atm is rubbish as i suspect it to be leaking & not holding boost.

ideally i want to upgrade to a HKS SSQV but if a GTR bov can do the job properly that will be the option to go.

Well they leak @ idle/low throttle, so not really... As the air is going through the turbos but not making it to the intake so response would be doughy as a result.

You'd need BOV's that seal always in that situation

can the GTR stock BOV be run as atmo?

i got a haltech ecu running map sensor so i wont have issues with the AFM not liking it or stalling.

the blitz BOV i got installed atm is rubbish as i suspect it to be leaking & not holding boost.

ideally i want to upgrade to a HKS SSQV but if a GTR bov can do the job properly that will be the option to go.

Has been done, i think it cost about $50 to do and worked perfectly. The guy who did it was "sh@un"

if its anything like what ive found from searching, they blocked the hole on the base of the bov with a screw or welded it so its sealed.

gonna try tonight by removing the bov and installing a blanking plate, if this improves response i will leave it this way till i get enough coin to buy a HKS one.

i cant be bothered to buy a GTR/GTST bov and mod it as i dont have the time or patience.

dammit blitz, why couldn't they just made a good BOV from factory like HKS!

No Offence Nismoid but you have handled this BOV thread very well, I was actually starting to believe that you hated BOV's and would destroy anyone that had one. I almost wondered if you would offer money for people to send there old BOV's in if they went back to reticulation ( just a thought lol) anyways i had a BOV and have gone back to retic I have now noticed car runs much better down low before boost and spool up time and also keep MIster Plod away as well.

I don't hate BOV's, just a lot of people swap them over and pay the price (poor running etc), and then come back in a few months with another thread about stalling/backfiring or economy etc.

If you go about it the right way however (which means retune, custom work etc), then it's all good.

There just aren't a lot of people willing to do things properly and then complain about the half-baked set-up that results.

It indeed does work perfectly, and will give you the noise you'd expect on gear changes. Personally I started to find said noise very annoying everytime you backed off the throttle slightly when having a go. Pretty sure it didn't make any difference to turbo response between gears in the end anyway.

Obviously, as has been mentioned, you can't do it on cars still running AFM's. MAP based load-sensing only.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...