Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a number of R34 parts for sale:

  1. R34 3-gauge cluster - perfect condition $70
  2. R34 3-gauge surround - pretty good condition, minor wear to the R34 interior paint $70
  3. R34 Orange Front Indicators - perfect condition $30
  4. R34 Manual Gear Surround & Ashtray - as above with 3-gauge surround, some marks/wear to R34 interior paint $50

Happy to post - send me a message for me to contact postoffice and get a quote on postage.

Pictures of items:

nissan%20triple%20meter.jpg

nissan%20triple%20meter%20cover.jpg

nissan%20front%20indicators.jpg

nissan%20gear%20surround%20ashtray.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375861-sa-various-r34-parts/
Share on other sites

hi, could i buy the r34 tripple gauge surround?. is it ok to post to the gold coast?.. can you do a deal on the tripple gauge as well?.. i was going to test and see if i can get it working on a r33?, do you have the loom for the back?.. thanx

gear surround is now sold.

I also have a Gates timing belt I bought earlier in the year for my car prior to it's accident. These usually sell for $100+. This is brand new, never used, original box - $70 + P&H

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.
    • Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
×
×
  • Create New...