Jump to content
SAU Community

Omggtrs Rebirth


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Names George :D,

I bought myself a 1997 R33 GTR as my 3rd Skyline being on a low budget at the time i sourced out a nice body and interior GTR with the engine in my mind as if its rooted ill enjoy learning on it!

So here it goes im a 2nd year apprentice i work in Thomastown Turbo Engineering and i been learning a hell of alot, so with aspirations to become an awesome mechanic im cutting my teeth on this GTR's engine

alot of people think im crazy and the few think I'm awesome for having a go i think im going to have the best fun of my life!

At the moment the cars sitting outside haven't moved it since i found out it has low comp and slight bottom end knock, now ... since ill be getting the engine out i figured might as-well go all out on it and build it properly

(to what i think is properly anyway lol) i have been saving up alot of doh and purchased most of the stuff i need to get it going again including the following

Cp Pistons 86.5mm

Eagle H-Beam rods (arp bolts)

ACL race series bearings

N1 water pump

Greddy Oil pump

Tomei 1.5mm Head Gasket

Tomei Ex, In, and throttle body gaskets

ARP studs throughout

Tomei Sump baffle kit + mines (type) cam baffles

Tomei Oil restrictor

Things i still need have money for but have not purchased

Haltech platinum pro ecu ( have been told its awesome but still researching )

ATI super damper harmonic with water pump pully.

set of coilovers as mine are rooted

still deciding on wheels but digging some TE37 SL's 18x10.5 +12

Cams getting custom made from camtech

cam gears

Garrett 2860-5 turbos

VRS kit :P

So guys feel free to help me out as im literally building a petrol engine from scratch for the 1st time i work on diesel cars alot and i know its different but the mechanics will be the same im sure.

ill post up some pics and stuff soon of the car and so on :D

Added some pics of the parts and my manuals haha i feel like a kid with a lego kit !

Cheers guys hope this turns out wish me luck :D

post-53107-0-60692900-1314878705_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-19006700-1314878716_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-18054700-1314878723_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Good on ya mate, I'm currently doing the same, my first engine build is a all out RB26, not a mechanic but have a strong passion for this, alot of my mates have written me off, and sure it's a very expensive learning curve but why not aye. Mines just having the loom made and should breathe life Monday or Tuesday for the first time, over 3 years of saving and sourcing parts and plenty of research on this site, and a few annoying questions finally coming to fruition, it's like have a baby

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id also suggerst that u invest in a larger sump to help with the oil issues.

pm J'z r33 on here, i think he might still have his performance metal craft 9L sump still for sale.

if u get this then u dont need your sump baffle kit

other than that u are on the right track

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the support fellas, it really helps lol i spent 380 last night on a genuine vrs kit has some doubles like head gasket n common gaskets but has every seal and washer that i need that u cant find ill keep spares prolly sell some that i dont need.

Anyway ill keep updating thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok today was a awesome day... i received my genuine nissan gasket kit ! comes with a tube of genuine nissan gasket cement lol! at least i don't have to worry about various gaskets o'rings and washers now :D

And i purchased a set of 2860r-5 Garrett turbos as-well which will arrive at my work tomorrow morning cant wait :D

post-53107-0-13165100-1315302048_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

post-53107-0-85315100-1316248929_thumb.jpgOK guys ive started to pull out the engine all is going ok.. but once i got to the driver side drive shaft i kind of ran into some trouble

i have no clue how this comes out and ive searched high and low even in the manual does not give any info just says remove drive shafts

ive gotten so far as you can see in the pics but i decided ill stop and wait for some info before i stuff something chek out the pics and let me know if im on the right track...

one shows the front shot of the shaft on the diff and the other is a side view of how far i got it out... i dident pull it right out..

cheers post-53107-0-28285400-1316248942_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay! with barely any help what so ever lol.. me and 2 mates got it out the drive shaft issue was solved just removed the spider out of the housing... and twisted the engine to clear the chassis

Now the strip down begins! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys just a small update on the GTR

I have just started to strip it down a bit took off the turbos which seem ok for a old engine my boss is giving me some cash for them which is sweet!

and my ATI balancer has arrived :D

post-53107-0-62668500-1317027570_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did some progress this weekend but was held up getting the head off so i can send the block to get done reason was i did not have a harmonic puller so i could not get to the the lower timing case :( ah well

this weekend will be the strip complete and the rebuilding will take place.!post-53107-0-81297800-1317631757_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Head off this weekend and inspection shows me reasons for low comp in cylinder 1, is fair bad pictures are decent but in person when u feel it its deep.

also alot of ware on the lifters :( cams looked like they had small bits of rust on them must have been sitting around alot how sad...

The other cylinders seem as if the engine had been rebuild before the cylinders had that honing look not sure if this is factory but on a 300,000km engine i wouldn't think the marks would have lasted

anywho hope to send block off to machinist ! wish me luck!

post-53107-0-89853900-1318072992_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-92045300-1318072996_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apon removal of pistons found no.1 piston ring seat to be destroyed lol all others seem ok now to the machine / balance shop!

Take a look at this hi res shot .

post-53107-0-37899800-1318153152_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in the pic above that shows the scratches inside the cylinder...it looks like theres a crack on the cylinder wall

Yeh i had a good look at it man looks intimidating its at the machine shop in the morning so hopefully i hear some news within the next day or so... wish me luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck.

Its awesome that youre giving it a red hot go!

I hope youre machinist is good because your clearances will either make it or break it. Just wondering how you determined the clearances youre using ie piston to bore, ring end gap etc etc? It takes years and years of experimenting with clearances to get a RB to hold together.

Take your time, make sure everything is 110% because at the power level of -5s everything has to be spot on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck.

Its awesome that youre giving it a red hot go!

I hope youre machinist is good because your clearances will either make it or break it. Just wondering how you determined the clearances youre using ie piston to bore, ring end gap etc etc? It takes years and years of experimenting with clearances to get a RB to hold together.

Take your time, make sure everything is 110% because at the power level of -5s everything has to be spot on.

Hey femno,

all the clearances will be checked and checked again at my work (workshop) i will be assembling the long motor then bringing it home to attach ancillaries, Duggens balancing in reservoir is my machinist ive herd nothing but good things about them and apparently hes that good i don't have to even measure his work lol, but i will any way the cp pistons come with their own rings.. i assume they should be spot on if any abnormalities are found they will be going straight back lol

it is my 1st time building an engine i figure throw myself in the deep end now learn on some good shit im so optimistic that i wont f**k up if anything does go wrong i will be happily pulling her out and redoing it all again untill i get it spot on im planning to open my own business when i get my papers so i gota lot to learn :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So when you check the clearances what are you going to be comparing them with???

For example piston to bore clearances...what are you going to use? The recommended CP figures? Figures from the internet? Your boss?

The ring end gap also depends on the piston to bore clearance.

Assume absolutely nothing and you will have a better chance of the thing holding together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
×
×
  • Create New...