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So when you check the clearances what are you going to be comparing them with???

For example piston to bore clearances...what are you going to use? The recommended CP figures? Figures from the internet? Your boss?

The ring end gap also depends on the piston to bore clearance.

Assume absolutely nothing and you will have a better chance of the thing holding together.

Yeh im going off the sheets + my boss i trust him with helping me hes 63 years old and been in a real successful business for like 36 years.... so yeh theirs nothing new in mechanics man an engines an engine all do have their issues but im sure ill ask him about what u have told me and well work something out ... ill also put up my clearances here to get some opinions too

ill let you know when im about to assemble thanks for the heads up appreciate it

yeh there is a large discussion on CP piston to bore clearence in the FI section, think it was started by TriniGT, with paul from Red R/twoogle, haveing a lot to say about going tighter, i ended up just going with CP spec, and the rings were all perfect, thought this would be easier as it was my first build and not time for experementing with different size gaps,

dan

  • 4 weeks later...

Got my block at work so i can work on it on Saturdays which is awesome,

This week i got my bearings, squirters, crank and 1,3,4 and 6 pistons in was a good learning process for me,

one thing i was a little unsure of was the arp main studs... i tightend the studs to what i thought was sufficient but then tightend the nuts to the standard torque of what the genunie nissan bolts are at...

which are 42-52 nm i think or 52 to 62nm not 100% forgot also the endcaps on the rods i did 17nm and 62degrees also (standard spec)

next weekend i may get to finish the whole bottom end :D

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Who machined the block for you, as you will have ur clearances all over the place if u have done Nissan specs and they have done arp specs, I would check with them what they have done, I also see u haven't trimmed ur three long studs yet,

Who machined the block for you, as you will have ur clearances all over the place if u have done Nissan specs and they have done arp specs, I would check with them what they have done, I also see u haven't trimmed ur three long studs yet,

Help me please so many secrets im not told ??? Why do i need to trim them?

Well all good located a specs sheet 43ftlbs was the torque 7/16 bolt today i finished the bottom end 2 and 5 pistons in and shaved the 3 longer main studs, also gave her a coat Of black paint for good measures lol ill upload pics wen i get home

  • 1 month later...

Been a damn while since i updated the progress!

although i thought my bottom end was done it wasent... i had to port match oil drains and find a 1mm restrictor which is all good now but im still curious about blocking off the rear oil feed on the block i have not seen any pics or info on this misterious rear oil feed i thought it was factory blocked but according to the sydneykid chart it says 1mm restrictor and block off ..... im confused can any1 confirm ?

i have invested in a spool head oil drain kit aswell and am selling my TRUST oil pump to purchase a TOMEI one instead as adjusting oil pressures will be kinda hard from inside the sump and the tomei is alot stronger !

Head is stripped down and tomei valve guides, type B springs and solid lifters purchased just waiting on some cashola for cams+gears which is about 1 month away since i bought a 2.8k IMAC for the misses :D

Ill try to keep this updated .

cheers!

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  • 4 months later...

Ok guys a decent update today as i got my head finished and instaled the head was valve grinded etc and pressure tested all issues were fixed head oil drain fitted and all the tomie goodies including valve guides springs lifters and 270 10.80 mm cams ..... machine work was excellent and was verry impressed with the turn out here are some pics !

Also have purchased ! Apexi power FC D-Jetro, Apexi AVCR black edition boost controller Tomei oil pump Nismo engine mounts as mine were split lol! all slowly coming together !

Another update will be done soon!

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Ok guys minor update.

Went into work today to apply some parts to the 26,

Got the N1 water pump on Tomei gears , cam seals, back timing plate, new nsk tensioner and idler and new tensioner and idler bolts and washers did however not put on the oil pump because i did some research yesterday.!

Turns out i cant use my standard crank although it will be ok eventually the collar will bash shit out of the pump so i went n purshased a JUN crank collar. costed $198 deliverd from RHD bit pricey but cant sacrifice quality.

When the collar arrives ill be pulling the crank out again i really dont want to disturb it but... i have to :(

Ill be keeping this updated as soon as its done, wish me luck :D

George

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good news everyone! lol

Turned out my crank collar was fine...and my constant need to doubt myself when i think im right always gets the better of me and i listen to the wrong people also.

all shit aside i got my tomei oil pump appart packet it with some molycote (vas/ grease ) good shit that will mix with the oil and give me pressure off the bat, locktite on all the screws and fitted up to the engine.

Attached all the front crank gear, timing plates and gates belt ( i herd these are noisy but not too fussed.) and all fitted up with a ATI harmonic.

Ill have all know she turns over like smeering butter :D beautiful no issues!

If anyone bothers to read i have a minor question.

when tightening the timing belt up with the tensioner using ur 5mm alankey how tight did you need to go on the belt ? i just gave it a zero feel with a little more tension so its as firm as the drive ( tight) side..

let me know as i can reduce the tension atm still if need be...

Cheers keep u guys updated :D

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