Jump to content
SAU Community

Omggtrs Rebirth


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So when you check the clearances what are you going to be comparing them with???

For example piston to bore clearances...what are you going to use? The recommended CP figures? Figures from the internet? Your boss?

The ring end gap also depends on the piston to bore clearance.

Assume absolutely nothing and you will have a better chance of the thing holding together.

Yeh im going off the sheets + my boss i trust him with helping me hes 63 years old and been in a real successful business for like 36 years.... so yeh theirs nothing new in mechanics man an engines an engine all do have their issues but im sure ill ask him about what u have told me and well work something out ... ill also put up my clearances here to get some opinions too

ill let you know when im about to assemble thanks for the heads up appreciate it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh there is a large discussion on CP piston to bore clearence in the FI section, think it was started by TriniGT, with paul from Red R/twoogle, haveing a lot to say about going tighter, i ended up just going with CP spec, and the rings were all perfect, thought this would be easier as it was my first build and not time for experementing with different size gaps,

dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Got my block at work so i can work on it on Saturdays which is awesome,

This week i got my bearings, squirters, crank and 1,3,4 and 6 pistons in was a good learning process for me,

one thing i was a little unsure of was the arp main studs... i tightend the studs to what i thought was sufficient but then tightend the nuts to the standard torque of what the genunie nissan bolts are at...

which are 42-52 nm i think or 52 to 62nm not 100% forgot also the endcaps on the rods i did 17nm and 62degrees also (standard spec)

next weekend i may get to finish the whole bottom end :D

post-53107-0-28748800-1321352138_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-70399400-1321352144_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-87983400-1321352152_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-89193800-1321352161_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who machined the block for you, as you will have ur clearances all over the place if u have done Nissan specs and they have done arp specs, I would check with them what they have done, I also see u haven't trimmed ur three long studs yet,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who machined the block for you, as you will have ur clearances all over the place if u have done Nissan specs and they have done arp specs, I would check with them what they have done, I also see u haven't trimmed ur three long studs yet,

Help me please so many secrets im not told ??? Why do i need to trim them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well all good located a specs sheet 43ftlbs was the torque 7/16 bolt today i finished the bottom end 2 and 5 pistons in and shaved the 3 longer main studs, also gave her a coat Of black paint for good measures lol ill upload pics wen i get home

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pics of the finished bottom end

Want to just give a big thanks to all the guys who gave me ideas and help through this part of the build much appreciated, now to the head work :D

post-53107-0-28057800-1322279303_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-26319300-1322279312_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-24258700-1322279316_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-90799100-1322279323_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-24713200-1322279335_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-55102500-1322279344_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-56535700-1322279350_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Been a damn while since i updated the progress!

although i thought my bottom end was done it wasent... i had to port match oil drains and find a 1mm restrictor which is all good now but im still curious about blocking off the rear oil feed on the block i have not seen any pics or info on this misterious rear oil feed i thought it was factory blocked but according to the sydneykid chart it says 1mm restrictor and block off ..... im confused can any1 confirm ?

i have invested in a spool head oil drain kit aswell and am selling my TRUST oil pump to purchase a TOMEI one instead as adjusting oil pressures will be kinda hard from inside the sump and the tomei is alot stronger !

Head is stripped down and tomei valve guides, type B springs and solid lifters purchased just waiting on some cashola for cams+gears which is about 1 month away since i bought a 2.8k IMAC for the misses :D

Ill try to keep this updated .

cheers!

post-53107-0-47694600-1327408566_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Ok guys a decent update today as i got my head finished and instaled the head was valve grinded etc and pressure tested all issues were fixed head oil drain fitted and all the tomie goodies including valve guides springs lifters and 270 10.80 mm cams ..... machine work was excellent and was verry impressed with the turn out here are some pics !

Also have purchased ! Apexi power FC D-Jetro, Apexi AVCR black edition boost controller Tomei oil pump Nismo engine mounts as mine were split lol! all slowly coming together !

Another update will be done soon!

post-53107-0-48852000-1338110212_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-06773300-1338110218_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-29605300-1338110224_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-26727800-1338110230_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-03993400-1338110239_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-04142600-1338110275_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-33121200-1338110276_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-69651600-1338110283_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-72204100-1338110294_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok guys minor update.

Went into work today to apply some parts to the 26,

Got the N1 water pump on Tomei gears , cam seals, back timing plate, new nsk tensioner and idler and new tensioner and idler bolts and washers did however not put on the oil pump because i did some research yesterday.!

Turns out i cant use my standard crank although it will be ok eventually the collar will bash shit out of the pump so i went n purshased a JUN crank collar. costed $198 deliverd from RHD bit pricey but cant sacrifice quality.

When the collar arrives ill be pulling the crank out again i really dont want to disturb it but... i have to :(

Ill be keeping this updated as soon as its done, wish me luck :D

George

post-53107-0-53817400-1339212402_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-08028400-1339212410_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good news everyone! lol

Turned out my crank collar was fine...and my constant need to doubt myself when i think im right always gets the better of me and i listen to the wrong people also.

all shit aside i got my tomei oil pump appart packet it with some molycote (vas/ grease ) good shit that will mix with the oil and give me pressure off the bat, locktite on all the screws and fitted up to the engine.

Attached all the front crank gear, timing plates and gates belt ( i herd these are noisy but not too fussed.) and all fitted up with a ATI harmonic.

Ill have all know she turns over like smeering butter :D beautiful no issues!

If anyone bothers to read i have a minor question.

when tightening the timing belt up with the tensioner using ur 5mm alankey how tight did you need to go on the belt ? i just gave it a zero feel with a little more tension so its as firm as the drive ( tight) side..

let me know as i can reduce the tension atm still if need be...

Cheers keep u guys updated :D

post-53107-0-88572600-1339914324_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-56392300-1339914341_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-65632100-1339914352_thumb.jpg

post-53107-0-14038500-1339914372_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
    • I installed it all myself,  It was really easy to install.  I got a professional to do the degas/gas.
    • Finally had some time after working on other projects to jump back on this thing. Pulled all 4 wheels to check the brakes over and lucked out, only needed to bleed them/change fluid to get everything working!    Took it for its first quick spin (around 2km) up the road and ran great! Sounds like I have a left rear wheel bearing that needs replacing and there’s a shake in the steering wheel but the tires are absolutely junk on this thing and had been sitting flat when I went to first look at the car so we’ll see if that’s the cause.   Tach randomly started working but I notice if my hicas light comes on the tach stops working 🙃 yay for electrical gremlins 
    • Bunnings car park it is! if you buy the kind of dampers with the adjustable top on the strut you can see it, red, purple? So many options.
×
×
  • Create New...