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ahh, so all N1s are R34GTR turbos, but not all 34 turbos are N1s :D

makes sense now :)

>_<

All N1s are N1s - not ceramic

All R34 turbos are R34 turbos - all ceramic

Each N1 had a different variant. R32/R33 N1s are laggy POS turbos,

R34 N1s are the same as Garrett -7

Ive run 300.5kw at the wheels for 7 years in an R32GTR with stock R33 GTR Turbos on 98 and 18psi.

This car is tuned much closer to the bone than i would tune a customers car tho and i now plan to set it up on E85. Ive never found a better power curve than this car at this power level with any aftermarket Turbos so I will not change them. R32 Turbos do fail very quickly tho.

Yea....There are different grades of Inconel so some might be attracted to magnets and others are not.

A better test might be using a multimeter and check for continuity ......Xkalaba you got a meter to check it out?

yeah i've got a multimeter, i can check the set i pulled out, do you know what to look for to tell the difference ?

pinch.gif

All N1s are N1s - not ceramic

All R34 turbos are R34 turbos - all ceramic

Each N1 had a different variant. R32/R33 N1s are laggy POS turbos,

R34 N1s are the same as Garrett -7

R34 N1s and -7s are similar but not the same, they have different comp wheel and housing.

gtr turbos

all turbos are listed with specs here

yeah i've got a multimeter, i can check the set i pulled out, do you know what to look for to tell the difference ?

Dont know if your meter has a continuity function but touch the two probes together and turn the selector till you hear a constant beep, then just hold the probes on two different points on the turbine wheel....If it beeps that means that the wheel is a conductor and therefore metallic

If your meter does not have the above function, touch the two probes together and turn the dial to measure resistance(ohms) till you see the display zero off, again place the probes on two points of the turbine wheel and if you see it zero off or you get a small reading it is conductive.

Similarly with either method above, you can touch it on a known metal like the comp housing and you will hear it beep or get a reading of almost zero ohms

Ceramic is not a conductor and will not give any beep or reading

Hope you understand

Dont know if your meter has a continuity function but touch the two probes together and turn the selector till you hear a constant beep, then just hold the probes on two different points on the turbine wheel....If it beeps that means that the wheel is a conductor and therefore metallic

If your meter does not have the above function, touch the two probes together and turn the dial to measure resistance(ohms) till you see the display zero off, again place the probes on two points of the turbine wheel and if you see it zero off or you get a small reading it is conductive.

Similarly with either method above, you can touch it on a known metal like the comp housing and you will hear it beep or get a reading of almost zero ohms

Ceramic is not a conductor and will not give any beep or reading

Hope you understand

snap on, so it better have it

thats what i was thinking, but good to confirm, cheers

the N1s turbos have a .64 rear housing and the wheel is bigger to but you need a set of verniers to tell, some have.60 front housing

  • 4 years later...

Pretty sure he knows that part. Can u visually tell if the turbo is different from an N1 or the wheel is different?

Bringing it back,

Ceramics have a 12 sided looking nut on the end of the turbine which is one big piece of ceramic.

Inconel 'steel' wheel rear turbine wheel I have seen them with a 3 sided rounded nut on the end of the casting...

You can see it when looking at the skyline gtr turbo comparison photo on the world wide web...

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