Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I hope this can help anyone who is unsure and a bit precarious as to ripping their lovely interior in half like I was!

The car involved in this topic in my 1993 R32 GT-R, which sometimes when parked on an abnormal surface would run in RWD and without ABS upon startup. This was confirmed by the warning lights on the dash and different driving/handling behaviour.

I am sure that the 33/34 variants would be much similar and I hope that all GT-R owners can gain something from this, whether it be a few handy hints or a big wad of dollars kept in the pocket :)

While undergoing the task of examining my G-sensor I had a few other things to do with the interior, so I hope my pictures and instructions can help all of you with other duties such as:

  • Removal of Climate Control Surround
  • Replacement of Rubber Gearbox Boot
  • Replacement of Power Source/Cigarette Lighter
  • Access and (self-undertaken) Removal of Triple Guage Cluster
  • Replacement of Triple Guage Cluster Front Cover
  • Access and (self-undertaken) Removal of Standard Cassette Radio
  • Removal of Centre Console

To start off you will need to arm yourself with:

  • A few different size screwdivers (all phillips head type)
  • A pen torch/head light
  • Patience

Okay so the first step is to remove the ashtray, very simple procedure. Open the lid and pull it back towards you. Use the ashtray as a sealed container for the 30+ screws you're going to pull out.

Once ashtray is out, put your hand in there and curl your fingers over where you will feel the retainer for the gearshift boot.

Like So..

1removetraypopbootup.jpg

Apply some force, don't be scared! It will feel like its going to snap but it will just pop up out of position, I simply pulled it up above the gear lever at this time but if you are replacing the Gearshift Boot, remove it now and install the new one at the final stage of the task.

By now you will have an idea of all the unbolting that needs to take place. The rubber gearbox boot shoulds be visible and there will be a grotty oil smell in the cabin but while you're here, double check the rubber boot itself isnt perished, and replace if necessary. Otherwise the smell won't go away.

2allscrews.jpg

The next picture shows some wiring, the orange loom is for the power source/cigarette lighter. This should now be unplugged ..

The red wire wasn't attached to anything on my car and it's not hurting anyone so I just let it sit there. The Black one will not need unplugging and can be tucked away a bit more to allow freer hand movement in the crevice.

3unplugciglight.jpg

Now you should be able to feel some flex and movement in the Climate Control Surround. Ensure that the clips either side of the gearshift are popped out first as you will find it does not want to move otherwise.

4sideclipsfirstremovesurround.jpg

This part is a little bit fiddly and it's up to you how and where you apply the force to physically remove the surround. When it is free, DO NOT try to rip it away from the original position! It is still attached at one point.

The easiest way to fully remove it is to sit in the drivers seat (as you would be anyway) bring the steering wheel to its highest and furthest position, and gently turn the surround 90 degrees towards you and place in on your lap.

5putasidelastscrew.jpg

Notice the very important looking hose still connected. Unscrew it..

6betterview.jpg

This is what you should be looking at when focused on the ashtrays mounting position..

7shouldlooklike.jpg

Now that you have all this space to drop things into, place some material like a tea towel or pillow case to catch any falling objects, much easier than trying to fit your hand into that dark nasty place..

8removeclimateradioandtriplecluster.jpg

You should be able to locate all of the screws required dependant on what you are trying to achieve. I used this opportunity to replace my cracked Triple Guage Cluster front cover.

Hint : CAREFULLY take the climate control face off and give it a wipe down on the inside. You take pride in your vehicle right? CAREFULLY place it back on! If you snap the edges on the climate control face dont freak out as the surround will hold it in flush once put back together, but be prepared to pay a few quid for a replacement if you are picky. Same goes for triple gauge cover..

This is about the point where you might start to think your pride and joy will resemble that old gemmy you had when you were 16 and the stereo sat in the passengers lap, but dont give up :thumbsup:

9shouldlook.jpg

Now for the Removal of the Centre Console. You will know just by being a driver of this type of vehicle where the screws are (the awkward ones with little black covering next to the drivers left leg support and the knee pad)

Repeat process for passenger side but dont forget the one in the glovebox! :nyaanyaa:

10dontforget.jpg

Lastly, the two screws at the rear of the centre console are easily removed by extending the passenger seat as forward as possible..

11unscrewremoveconsole.jpg

12betterview.jpg

Carefully lift and remove the centre console, and you will see the Lateral G-Sensor safely nestled in the centre of the tunnel.

DO NOT TOUCH, MODIFY, POKE, PROD, STAB, OR SNEEZE NEAR IT. A genuine nissan item allegedly costs 2k to replace, but if it looks like this :

13happygsensor.jpg

You can carefully repeat all these steps in reverse. The sticker on the sensor is pretty self explanatory. If it indicates red, well let's not go there..

Thanks for reading and enjoy your lovely balanced vehicles :thumbsup:

  • 2 years later...

i know this is old, but can anyone explain how a sensor gets to display 'red" in the window?

does anyone have a complete pin-out diagram for this sensor. i cant find what i want with over an hour of google searching

thanks

"excessive impact" is written on the G sensor beneath the window

there is a how to fix which you have found.

I believe there is a diagram on SAU in one of the links in these subjects of a guy with a wine red 32 GTR who did a fair amount of investigation previously

don't have time right now to find it for you - use search again and in particular look for a link embedded in one of the posts.

I remember seeing 2 electrical diagrams in it.

Could try search under Attessa and G

Edited by Sinista32

here we go - http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&title=Godzilla-Tamed-&A=107753

Godzilla Tamed

Not exactly what your looking for ?

Try Google "g sensor diagram skyline""

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...