Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i like the gold annodised centers. or just black?

CCW WHEELS

019rp.jpg

bsh_01.jpgsatinblk_06.jpg

Can you please tell me how it feels when you go over pot holes? Isnt that wheel hanging out of the guard which means the guards are going to be f*ked up soon :s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376294-best-rims-eva/#findComment-6023068
Share on other sites

dave, that set on the 32 with the dark grey centre with polished lip look sexual. like BBS LMs (probably one of my fav R32 GTR wheels) but with nice curve in the centre to give it some depth.

you could try 11s but will definitely need some careful offset choice and at the least rolling/folding the guard lips and possibly even a little bit of flaring (doubt it though). fronts will be the same. need to fold the lip for sure and possibly remove the guard liners or at least modify them (can heat them up and re-shape them a bit).

I'll say it again, they look hot. 18X10.5 or 18X11 with somewhere between +15 and +20 and you should be right. could order them in +20 or so and adjust as needed with small spacer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376294-best-rims-eva/#findComment-6023623
Share on other sites

good choice mate. 17s look way better on R32s. all the tough R32s in japan run 17s. I once asked a mate why and he said (my rough translation) "it just looks right/proper/correct". :)

the only reason I guess most go 18s in for brake clearance but the right 17s can still fit some pretty serious brakes. my F50s with 355mm rotors fit easily under 17inch Nismo LM GT4s with a lower profile caliper I reckon you could get bigger rotors under there.

I do like the teddy bear wheels. tough call really between those and the CCW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376294-best-rims-eva/#findComment-6033618
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
×
×
  • Create New...