Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ That's a shame...

I've had my fire extinguisher for ages now sitting in the back seat (not the best location), waiting for me to decide where to fit it permanently.

Over the weekend I was about to mount it to the passenger side on the dash where the trans tunnel is but the plastic flexes so wasn't too keen to mount it up.

Any chance that variations can be made on these brackets to suit us guys running Bride rails?

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: On a 180SX by the way.

Edited by AnDyStYLe

^ That's a shame...

I've had my fire extinguisher for ages now sitting in the back seat (not the best location), waiting for me to decide where to fit it permanently.

Over the weekend I was about to mount it to the passenger side on the dash where the trans tunnel is but the plastic flexes so wasn't too keen to mount it up.

Any chance that variations can be made on these brackets to suit us guys running Bride rails?

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: On a 180SX by the way.

i made one of the bride rails on the 200sx i had..

if you can get it to sit forward , then it will clear the lever..

i got my comfortable seating position, and mounted it directly in front.. i was the only one driving, so no need for the seat to go any further forward.

i too rigged up something with Joe's bracket and two metal arms extending the extinguisher out further passed the lever. But it's not ideal and sits quite far into the foot-well. Super easy access, but i'd rather not have it like it is.

i too rigged up something with Joe's bracket and two metal arms extending the extinguisher out further passed the lever. But it's not ideal and sits quite far into the foot-well. Super easy access, but i'd rather not have it like it is.

Yes that type of seat rail lever is a problem. only option is to do what Daniel did ^:

  1. slide the seat forward to where you want it and put the extingusiher in location
  2. check clearance to your legs so it doesnt anoy you when driving.
  3. measure/mark out how far you will need to extend the bracket
  4. cut and drill (6mm dia) a flat plate/s (3 - 4 mm Aluminium or steel) to bolt to the front of the bracket and then to the fire extinguisher (leave plenty of material around the holes 15 - 20mm)
  5. Bolt it in and check clearances in your driving position
  6. Take it out and hit with satin black spray can or not.

It wont be as rigid as when not extended but will still be strong in the direction it needs to be (deceleration) and look tidy.

Its not ideal but alot easier than fabricating the entire bracket as the angle and different heights of the seat bolts are a pain to get lined up.

If there was say 10 people want the extension plates I could get some universal ones made up but other wise not economical.

hope this helps!

Going to bring some of these to Sandown this Sat 22nd if anyone needs one? $90

Just look me up before scrutineering, i will be there early and can help with install to.

cheers, Joe

Going to bring some of these to Sandown this Sat 22nd if anyone needs one? $90

Just look me up before scrutineering, i will be there early and can help with install to.

cheers, Joe

do you have the bolts for between the seat bracket and the extinguisher bracket or should i bring some along

do you have the bolts for between the seat bracket and the extinguisher bracket or should i bring some along

No worries I will supply the M6 bolts that bolt the extinguisher bracket to the seat bracket. Then you reuse the factory seat bolts. All you need to bring is the extinguisher with its own metal bracket.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Not that old, I posted in here just a few weeks ago. Got mine installed, you won't be disappointed. This is one very fine piece of fabrication.

A couple of pointers (you might know these already but if not for you, for other people searching/reading)

Buying a fire extinguisher: Get one with a good bracket. Metal frame and one strap I would say personally. If it comes down to it and you're on fire you don't want to be f**king around with two straps.

I tried mounting mine in a couple of different ways but I found the best setup was with the pressure dial facing the floor of the car so it's easier to grab the handles to pick up the fire extinguisher. and mounting the fire extinguisher with the nozzle near the door. I tried all combinations and found it more difficult to remove.

Edited by jukic.j

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...