Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ That's a shame...

I've had my fire extinguisher for ages now sitting in the back seat (not the best location), waiting for me to decide where to fit it permanently.

Over the weekend I was about to mount it to the passenger side on the dash where the trans tunnel is but the plastic flexes so wasn't too keen to mount it up.

Any chance that variations can be made on these brackets to suit us guys running Bride rails?

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: On a 180SX by the way.

Edited by AnDyStYLe

^ That's a shame...

I've had my fire extinguisher for ages now sitting in the back seat (not the best location), waiting for me to decide where to fit it permanently.

Over the weekend I was about to mount it to the passenger side on the dash where the trans tunnel is but the plastic flexes so wasn't too keen to mount it up.

Any chance that variations can be made on these brackets to suit us guys running Bride rails?

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: On a 180SX by the way.

i made one of the bride rails on the 200sx i had..

if you can get it to sit forward , then it will clear the lever..

i got my comfortable seating position, and mounted it directly in front.. i was the only one driving, so no need for the seat to go any further forward.

i too rigged up something with Joe's bracket and two metal arms extending the extinguisher out further passed the lever. But it's not ideal and sits quite far into the foot-well. Super easy access, but i'd rather not have it like it is.

i too rigged up something with Joe's bracket and two metal arms extending the extinguisher out further passed the lever. But it's not ideal and sits quite far into the foot-well. Super easy access, but i'd rather not have it like it is.

Yes that type of seat rail lever is a problem. only option is to do what Daniel did ^:

  1. slide the seat forward to where you want it and put the extingusiher in location
  2. check clearance to your legs so it doesnt anoy you when driving.
  3. measure/mark out how far you will need to extend the bracket
  4. cut and drill (6mm dia) a flat plate/s (3 - 4 mm Aluminium or steel) to bolt to the front of the bracket and then to the fire extinguisher (leave plenty of material around the holes 15 - 20mm)
  5. Bolt it in and check clearances in your driving position
  6. Take it out and hit with satin black spray can or not.

It wont be as rigid as when not extended but will still be strong in the direction it needs to be (deceleration) and look tidy.

Its not ideal but alot easier than fabricating the entire bracket as the angle and different heights of the seat bolts are a pain to get lined up.

If there was say 10 people want the extension plates I could get some universal ones made up but other wise not economical.

hope this helps!

Going to bring some of these to Sandown this Sat 22nd if anyone needs one? $90

Just look me up before scrutineering, i will be there early and can help with install to.

cheers, Joe

Going to bring some of these to Sandown this Sat 22nd if anyone needs one? $90

Just look me up before scrutineering, i will be there early and can help with install to.

cheers, Joe

do you have the bolts for between the seat bracket and the extinguisher bracket or should i bring some along

do you have the bolts for between the seat bracket and the extinguisher bracket or should i bring some along

No worries I will supply the M6 bolts that bolt the extinguisher bracket to the seat bracket. Then you reuse the factory seat bolts. All you need to bring is the extinguisher with its own metal bracket.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Not that old, I posted in here just a few weeks ago. Got mine installed, you won't be disappointed. This is one very fine piece of fabrication.

A couple of pointers (you might know these already but if not for you, for other people searching/reading)

Buying a fire extinguisher: Get one with a good bracket. Metal frame and one strap I would say personally. If it comes down to it and you're on fire you don't want to be f**king around with two straps.

I tried mounting mine in a couple of different ways but I found the best setup was with the pressure dial facing the floor of the car so it's easier to grab the handles to pick up the fire extinguisher. and mounting the fire extinguisher with the nozzle near the door. I tried all combinations and found it more difficult to remove.

Edited by jukic.j

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...