Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All the cars need a full cage. Some just hide it well. I plan on being out there towards the end of next year. No idea what I'll be driving though. What ever pops up on my105 cheap I guess.

Will be good to see some more sau'ers out there

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

get an MX5 and be cool like me Zebbie

cheap cheap!!

buy cheap NA6 with or without rego - 3k

buy NA8 motor - $500

buy exhaust and intake - 1k

buy roll bar - $800

buy seat and harness - $500 max

buy wheels and semi's - $1500 max

buy coilovers - 1k max or get second hand 500?

rotors and pads - 200 - 400

do most yourself - about 8.5k

could get stuff cheaper too and be really tight for 8k and go racing.

or as you said - buy something on my105 already done - so many options!

and superTT is a fun class/series

haha yeah Zeb was being stoopid!

got a lot of track time in! loved it Duncan!

Im in the middle there somewhere

380967_2248585569041_1080242795_2373287_985630011_n.jpg

377787_2248596449313_1080242795_2373320_1100976858_n.jpg

On Parry's ass!! however was scary having the Monaro SS V8 behind me!

just goes to show a good mix of cars, the Pug on slicks, a 350 V8 muscle car behind and the hairdresser in the middle!

Boz and I are building a budget s13 currently. It was cheap as a race only import.

Sr20det. It'll cost about 7k caged and built basic to go racing with a brake upgrade, seats harness blah blah.

Cheap cheap way to go racing.

Andrew you should look at buying something similar, it will still take some money and talent to get an s13 to the front but to run top 10 shouldn't be hard.

Cheers was just looking at a hq. but I think the slowness would drive me nuts. But it would be nice to have a car I could race anywhere if I move to qld or if mra stops running

I have no talent lol. But I just want to get out there

The money you'll spend doing the rb20 and buying parts for an r31 would be better spent on an s13.

A serious break down would be

Cage $2200

Seat and harness $1000

Brakes $1000

Rims and tires 17 inch $1500

Safety gear $500

That's $6200 if you bought new tires and paid top dollar for safety gear like isolators, seat and brakes.

It could be done for 4k.

S13's are also elligiable for IPRA.

I'd build an r32 GTsT over an s13 but the s13 is so cheap to buy and replace if it gets shunted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
×
×
  • Create New...