Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just a quick question.i also have a Garrett gt3037S(3076r) also with anti surge front with the id tag saying:GT3037s-56T and under that says T00382-12.and A/R.60 on front housing. Just wanted to no exactly what ive got. Is it a .82rear? And .60 front? Also would that make the 300kw mark(anything more would be a bonus) on a rb25det?(forged bottom end,ported head,custom plenum,nismo 740cc inj,head studs,38mm tial gate,hi mount manifold.etc etc..) just wanna no if that turbo is good enough for the power im looking for.... :) any advice would help thanx

Yeah mine says 3037-56T too, pretty sure they are exactly the same as the 3076r? I thought there may have been some difference but havent read anything to show the difference? They apparently sound awesome :woot:

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

3037 is simply the 3076 in the old garrett naming system. just like 3040 and 3540 are the 3082 and 3582. and no that doesnt mean you have an older turbo, they've been called 3076 for years but the tags still say 3037 (last time i looked anyway).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...