Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Up for grabs is my full GT30 high mount setup that I ran on my R33 GTR for no more than 2000km. Am selling this setup because I'm now running a set of N1 turbos and no longer need this kit. I would prefer to sell this as one complete setup with pick-up being the preferred option (for obvious reasons!)

I'm asking $3000 for the full kit that is guaranteed to fit onto your RB26, clearing strut tower, strut bars, cam covers and front drive train etc. The turbo was only run at 15 pounds and although it doesn't require it, was always idled for 1 minute prior to engine shutdown. Breakup of the prices are below, with original costs in brackets.

1. Garrett GT3076 ball bearing turbo .....$1400 ($1840)

2. Custom built tuned-length manifold with external gate mount.....$900 ($1350)

3. Mandrel bent 3" dump pipe (I have a stainless and mild steel item for you to chose from)..... $100 ($300)

4. Tial Sport waste gate ..... $350 ($455)

5. New Pod filter, air intake pipe, braided oil feed line, oil drain hose, flange plates, dump pipe clamps ..... $250

Feel free to send me a PM or 0413 893 942 if you have any queries at all.

post-32275-0-16608400-1315622909_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-31150500-1315622941_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-43989600-1315622967_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-74957800-1315623014_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-61781500-1315623063_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-35190600-1315623088_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-22070800-1315623150_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376750-highmount-gt3076-kit-for-rb26/
Share on other sites

Any changes needed to fit R32 gtr? Also, why did you go back to n1s?

Piranha, I'm not too sure about how things would fit inside the R32's engine bay. There was plenty room to spare either side of the turbo in my R33. I'm pretty sure that manifold wise and so forth, everything should bolt up. One would really have to check manifold stud spacing just to be certain

I've been trying out all sorts of turbo sizes and configurations - so far it seems to be a draw between the N1's and GT30 but can only run one or the other ;) The GT30 came on a bit harder (big single style) while the N1's seem to be more linear.

Edited by tommis85

What rear housing on turbo?

Also what power were you making?

How was response rpm wise and when did it start to drop off?

The rear is .82

I was making 352hp at wheels on a very safe tune at around 1 bar. Just ran out of money at the time to be able to run turbo at it's efficiency which would have been between 18 and 20 pounds, equaling around 400hp at the wheels on a decent tune.

Response was actually good for a big turbo....little bit laggy below 3500 but once above that it ramps up hard and doesn't drop off.

Edited by tommis85

Here are some photos of the manifold's collector / flange as requested.

The flange plate itself measures 108x66.4mm while the stud spacing measures approx 86x44.5mm centre to centre.

Hope this helps but please note, I really would prefer to sell this as one full kit as complete as possible. I still have parts left over from my last sale.

post-32275-0-24229000-1315696477_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-36703000-1315696826_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-19658500-1315696851_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-54582300-1315696895_thumb.jpg

Edited by tommis85
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Ray, here's a hi-res pic of the dint in the underside of one of the runners. The manifold is made from thick-walled mild steel steam pipe and I dare say the area there will be OK. I was running it like this for a couple months.

post-32275-0-15982200-1325054736_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Hi all, just letting you know that the manifold is getting fixed this week. The entire dinted runner is getting removed with a new one being put in place. Please let me know if you're interested, cheers!

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,

Here are some pics of the repaired manifold now ready to be mounted on a 26 out there! Dented runner has been replaced with a new bit, cleaned and repainted. Will throw in collector side studs, gasket and nuts.

Will post to anywhere in Australia as per other parts that have been sold already.

post-32275-0-91740700-1331504055_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-61897500-1331504203_thumb.jpg

post-32275-0-60508500-1331504333_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...