Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys!

As a result of having my car keyed I am having a full respray done.

What was of interest to me was what would people suggest that I do straight away after receiving the car back.

Ie. Wash / No Wash, Meguiars Gold Wax, Curabbana wax (or however you spell it) etc.

Just a general idea on how to best protect the new paint work and to add that beautiful finish that it deserves.

Cheers!

-Alex

Wax, wax and more wax.

Er... not all at once. Wax is regularly, so the fresh paint has a good layer of protection.

How much is the full respray costing you?

On the expensive side mate... can't remember on top of my head... but its all pretty much being done as part of an insurance claim for when my car was keyed whilst back in Brissy!

-Alex

As people have said, wash the car and wax it regularly. Wax maintains a nice smooth surface so dirt will be removed much more easily, it'll just slide off. After a few cycles you'll build up a layer of wax which will protect the paint.

I've actually just read the original post, completely mistook the question...

When you first get it home, give it a wash, but with not too much soap, just to get rid of the dust and whatnot... lost of rinsing with the hose, keep it all nice and wet until you can get to it with a good chamois. Dry it down with the chamois, then get to it with the wax. Do it in the shade (garage is good, outside in the shade sucks because you'll get bits from trees all over it)... do the wax and buff by hand, don't use one of those buffer things, you'll get happy little circles all over your nice new paintjob if you go too far into the wax.

Anyway, wax every time you wash, like Kinks said, you'll get a good layer of wax on there, protecting the new paintjob.

Thanks for the replies guys. Just a quick question though in relation to the type of wax to use.

On the advice of many others here in the past I have used Meguiars Gold and have been fairly happy. (I always seem to get little bits of white in the crevices where I can't get to the wax to buff it out)

However, for this first coat I had to ask everyones advice as to whether to change to the curabanna wax (can't remember the spelling) in the tin or to stick with the Meguiars Gold for the first coat.

Cheers guys and thanks again!

-Alex

I think you might find that there's actually some carnauba wax in the Gold Class stuff (don't quote me though)... if the Gold Class bottle mentioned protection and has carnauba in it, go with that... otherwise I'd suggest the carnauba stuff.

I have some Meguiars carnauba stuff, which is always good. I use it for protection rather than giving a nice shine (which it does anyway)... unfortunately, I don't have a garage, and I have to park in a dusty area at work, so no matter what I do, the shine doesn't stay long, so I just stick with taking care of the paint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...