Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Wow crap day! Took my car to the usual detailer I use in Annerley... picked it up and drove it home, noticed a flake of paint missing from my front bumper - (serves me right for being lazy and letting someone else wash it, live in a share house... it doesn't even have a hose!)

went back to them and got the usual 'that didn't happen here' crap...

Anyway I now need to get my front bumper repainted in QX1

Mates have previously had cars painted (particular R33's) and had the paint flaking off the bumper due to it being plastic and flexing... I want a proper job as the '35 is my pride and joy - Only just got the front windows tinted on Friday

Luckily I fly to lots of random places with work, so I can afford to be without my car for a few days from time to time.

Also need to get the back passenger side quarter panel and bumper repainted (the car has a tiny pin dint just on the join and I am a perfectionist!)

While I'm being OCD I'll be chasing a front wheel as mine has minor rash on it, given the immaculate condition of the rest of them I'd rather just find another scmick '35 wheel and swap it on than get it sanded back and refinished

Any advised panel beaters would be appreciated, seen to much dodgy stuff done on cars to just rock up and see how it goes to any random panel beater. I live in Moorooka but I'm happy to travel for a quality job (and its plastic so it wont rust; I'd rather spend more to get it done properly than rush, do it on the cheap and have to get it done multiple times)

Thanks guys!

IMG_0712.jpg

IMG_0713.jpg

Camerons Bodyworks in Coopers Plains. I've used them before a few times and so have others. They deal with a lot of imports too, so give them a go.

As for wheels, it would probably be easier and cheaper to get them repaired/refinished. I've got a mobile wheel repairer coming on Tuesday to fix a couple of my wheels on my Merc. If he's any good I'll pass you his number.

Legend,

Only reason I was keen on finding another stocky wheel is the Nissan paint on the wheels is pretty awesome and it isn't just flat silver, something called hyper silver or something like that? (my old man works for a Nissan dealer)

But your Merc's wheels will probably be the same thing (unlike VW's that have flat paint on their wheels!)

If it turns out well I'll probably give it a go

Thanks mate,

Glen

Camerons Bodyworks in Coopers Plains. I've used them before a few times and so have others. They deal with a lot of imports too, so give them a go.

As for wheels, it would probably be easier and cheaper to get them repaired/refinished. I've got a mobile wheel repairer coming on Tuesday to fix a couple of my wheels on my Merc. If he's any good I'll pass you his number.

Legend,

Only reason I was keen on finding another stocky wheel is the Nissan paint on the wheels is pretty awesome and it isn't just flat silver, something called hyper silver or something like that? (my old man works for a Nissan dealer)

But your Merc's wheels will probably be the same thing (unlike VW's that have flat paint on their wheels!)

If it turns out well I'll probably give it a go

Thanks mate,

Glen

AJ from Voodoo garage in Southport Goldcoast. Knows how to paint QX1.

0434 427 200

He did this bonnet, highly recommended

IMG_3246.jpg

Edited by R6n350GT

Glen,

The wheel repairer is highly recommended! I told him to expect your call, just make sure you tell him the color of your wheel and give him a couple of days notice depending where you are.

Click below:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/377081-alloy-wheel-doctor/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
×
×
  • Create New...