Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just needed a quick yay or nay on my situation, any advice would be greatly appreciated. For the first time on SAU, a forum search didn't solve things for me :(

Someone recently made an attempt to break in to my R34 GTT, but luckily the alarm scared them off and no damage was done to the car. Unfortunately though, I wasn't at home at the time and the alarm ran long enough to run the battery completely flat. I live on a hill, so thinking I might just give it a quick push start but wanted to check if anyone here thinks I shouldn't? May sound silly but just wanted to be 100% sure before I do it. It has an Exedy HD clutch but apart from that the transmission/engine is stock. If there's any risk of damage I'll ask a neighbour for a jump start but wanted to avoid the trouble.

Cheers in advance thanks.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376913-flat-battery-push-start/
Share on other sites

I'm no auto electrician, but if your alarm was armed and activated when the battery died, you might find that the relay for the immobiliser is still immobilising the ignition system, so therefore you wont be able to start the car. You might have to jump the battery to deactivate the alarm (therefore switching the relay back to allow the ignition).

It depends on whether the relay is normally open or normally closed.

It depends on whether the relay is normally open or normally closed.

If the immobiliser is of any value it should be impossible to push start the car.

I've ran the battery flat a couple of times in my R33, jumper leads plus a donor car always does the trick :thumbsup:

As above mate, it might not push start if the immobiliser has locked the ignition. Just make sure you get the terminals right when you jump it. I'd come round to help but we're in syd full time now, don't even have the jesmond place now.

Push starting in general is fine though, the transmission and engine get a far harder bashing when driving the car.

Glad there was no damage!

Jump started and good to go :) Never realised the immobiliser would prevent a push start, makes sense though. At least next time I'll know to go straight for the jumper leads, thanks for the responses. :cheers:

Haha yeh ben I was going to text you if I ran into any major trouble, likewise very relieved that no damage was done - very thankful to the alarm. Hope everything's going well down in Sydney for you and tiff, hopefully see you guys soon (I think a group gathering is on the cards)

As Mark said, if you don't have "some" form of charge in the battery, you can't push start a car.

If the battery is flat to the point it kinda wants to turn over but won't, you can push start, below this you can't as the ECU won't turn on, which means there's no signal going to the injectors or spark plugs to fire any fuel that may be left in the fuel line as your fuel pump won't be turned on...

Jump started and good to go :) Never realised the immobiliser would prevent a push start, makes sense though. At least next time I'll know to go straight for the jumper leads, thanks for the responses. :cheers:

Haha yeh ben I was going to text you if I ran into any major trouble, likewise very relieved that no damage was done - very thankful to the alarm. Hope everything's going well down in Sydney for you and tiff, hopefully see you guys soon (I think a group gathering is on the cards)

Cheers mate, glad it's all sorted. Hopefully will see you soon, there's something coming up this months or next I think? I never remember these things lol.

So the car parked outside your place? Pretty surprising, it's a fairly good area that one (though I did just move from jesmond to live in liverpool for 6 months)

If I didn't drive my old r33 fir about 9 days or more, The alarm would drain the shitty tiny battery that nissan would allow to fit in that tiny section in the boot. It was a full rhino Australian standards IMObiliser and alarm with built in turbo timer. I'd probably clutch start it once every 6 months or so. I always carried a portable jump starter pack as well and it came handy if it went flat in a carpark or somewhere flat.

I never once had issues with the IMObiliser not deactivating. They clutch start really easy, once did it on a slight slant, you would barely notice it sloped at all.

  • 3 weeks later...

So the car parked outside your place? Pretty surprising, it's a fairly good area that one (though I did just move from jesmond to live in liverpool for 6 months)

Yeh I thought it was an alright area too, but we seem to get our fair share of vandalism :( A week after the attempt on the 34, someone broke into my sister's car - luckily nothing taken/no damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...