Jump to content
SAU Community

Flat Battery, Push Start?

Soft

By Soft,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Soft Contributor

Soft

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, just needed a quick yay or nay on my situation, any advice would be greatly appreciated. For the first time on SAU, a forum search didn't solve things for me :(

Someone recently made an attempt to break in to my R34 GTT, but luckily the alarm scared them off and no damage was done to the car. Unfortunately though, I wasn't at home at the time and the alarm ran long enough to run the battery completely flat. I live on a hill, so thinking I might just give it a quick push start but wanted to check if anyone here thinks I shouldn't? May sound silly but just wanted to be 100% sure before I do it. It has an Exedy HD clutch but apart from that the transmission/engine is stock. If there's any risk of damage I'll ask a neighbour for a jump start but wanted to avoid the trouble.

Cheers in advance thanks.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376913-flat-battery-push-start/
Share on other sites
Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted

I'm no auto electrician, but if your alarm was armed and activated when the battery died, you might find that the relay for the immobiliser is still immobilising the ignition system, so therefore you wont be able to start the car. You might have to jump the battery to deactivate the alarm (therefore switching the relay back to allow the ignition).

It depends on whether the relay is normally open or normally closed.

Cassbo Grand Master

Cassbo

Posted
Posted

It depends on whether the relay is normally open or normally closed.

If the immobiliser is of any value it should be impossible to push start the car.

I've ran the battery flat a couple of times in my R33, jumper leads plus a donor car always does the trick :thumbsup:

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

As above mate, it might not push start if the immobiliser has locked the ignition. Just make sure you get the terminals right when you jump it. I'd come round to help but we're in syd full time now, don't even have the jesmond place now.

Push starting in general is fine though, the transmission and engine get a far harder bashing when driving the car.

Glad there was no damage!

Soft Contributor

Soft

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Jump started and good to go :) Never realised the immobiliser would prevent a push start, makes sense though. At least next time I'll know to go straight for the jumper leads, thanks for the responses. :cheers:

Haha yeh ben I was going to text you if I ran into any major trouble, likewise very relieved that no damage was done - very thankful to the alarm. Hope everything's going well down in Sydney for you and tiff, hopefully see you guys soon (I think a group gathering is on the cards)

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

You need a charge so the computer will send signals the car needs to start, use jumper leads and let the car sit connected for a couple of minutes before trying to start it.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

As Mark said, if you don't have "some" form of charge in the battery, you can't push start a car.

If the battery is flat to the point it kinda wants to turn over but won't, you can push start, below this you can't as the ECU won't turn on, which means there's no signal going to the injectors or spark plugs to fire any fuel that may be left in the fuel line as your fuel pump won't be turned on...

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

Jump started and good to go :) Never realised the immobiliser would prevent a push start, makes sense though. At least next time I'll know to go straight for the jumper leads, thanks for the responses. :cheers:

Haha yeh ben I was going to text you if I ran into any major trouble, likewise very relieved that no damage was done - very thankful to the alarm. Hope everything's going well down in Sydney for you and tiff, hopefully see you guys soon (I think a group gathering is on the cards)

Cheers mate, glad it's all sorted. Hopefully will see you soon, there's something coming up this months or next I think? I never remember these things lol.

So the car parked outside your place? Pretty surprising, it's a fairly good area that one (though I did just move from jesmond to live in liverpool for 6 months)

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

If I didn't drive my old r33 fir about 9 days or more, The alarm would drain the shitty tiny battery that nissan would allow to fit in that tiny section in the boot. It was a full rhino Australian standards IMObiliser and alarm with built in turbo timer. I'd probably clutch start it once every 6 months or so. I always carried a portable jump starter pack as well and it came handy if it went flat in a carpark or somewhere flat.

I never once had issues with the IMObiliser not deactivating. They clutch start really easy, once did it on a slight slant, you would barely notice it sloped at all.

  • 3 weeks later...
Soft Contributor

Soft

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So the car parked outside your place? Pretty surprising, it's a fairly good area that one (though I did just move from jesmond to live in liverpool for 6 months)

Yeh I thought it was an alright area too, but we seem to get our fair share of vandalism :( A week after the attempt on the 34, someone broke into my sister's car - luckily nothing taken/no damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...