Stock R34 Turbo Whats The Best Way To Go?

[timbo86]

Hi all

My mate just picked up this nice stock 98 R34 5sp turbo, 68,000k's drives really nice!

now looking for a bit of direction with it he has a bit of cash to throw around, he's looking to achieve at least 300-350rwkw

most likely going to go all out on it using only quality parts what would the best turbo ecu cams injectors etc to run to achieve this sorta power?

will forge the motor to get this power, would expect it would be necessary?

also whats a good offset etc to give it a nice stance? any recommendations on rims? don't want any bigger then 18's

he's hoping to put in tein coilovers dark tints and keeping the body pretty stock

cheers for any help

tim

[timbo86]

also anyone know a good shop that will look after us, we're pretty much halfway between sydney and brisbane so could travel either way ;-)

[75coupe]

pls search first....pls!

[lilcrash]

Hypergear turbo, 600cc injectors, walbro gss-342/bosch 040, nistune.

Plus the usual stuff, infercooler exhaust airfilter.

END THREAD

Edited September 14, 2011 by lilcrash

[timbo86]

pls search first....pls!

yer that helps me with a couple of questions not all

would like some honest answers and some personal opinions other wise dont post cheers

[ahh 33 s2]

Rb25 upgrade thread and or search,

But for me

Vipec

Profec b

3076

550cc

Fmic

3" zorst

040

Skids

Edited September 15, 2011 by ahh 33 s2

[wolverine]

he's looking to achieve at least 300-350rwkw

A reasonably big difference there. Is it 300 or 350 as a minimum?

most likely going to go all out on it using only quality parts what would the best turbo ecu cams injectors etc to run to achieve this sorta power?

Well it is going to depend on exactly how much power is actually "needed".

will forge the motor to get this power, would expect it would be necessary?

Depending on the quality of the tune, usage and ultimate power level you can get away with a stock engine however for how long?!?! Maybe 6mths maybe 10 years.

also whats a good offset etc to give it a nice stance? any recommendations on rims? don't want any bigger then 18's

Not a forced induction question. Personally do not want 18" rims and 350rwkw.

he's hoping to put in tein coilovers dark tints and keeping the body pretty stock

ummm ok.

cheers for any help

A search (as suggested) would answer all these questions. Once you have a roughed out plan and post this up you might find a warmer response.

[GTScotT]

300rwkw $10,000

350rwkw $20,000

Sounds like a new Kando customer coming up..

6boost

Kando dynamic T67

Tial MVR 44mm

3.5" TBE

Nistune + Z32 + ID1000

Bosch 044

Greddy 'cross flow' FMIC

Good for 300+ until you get bored, up the boost, make 350+, blow the motor and spend another 10k making it able to cope with the rest of the power.

Look up SimonR32 in the members section, find one of his posts, then click the build thread in his signature. Copy his setup if thats the power you want, others have also copied him and have gotten great results too.

[jrm]

My mate just picked up this nice stock 98 R34 5sp turbo, 68,000k's drives really nice!

Looking at the picture you supplied, I'd be a bit worried about what front-end damage has occurred in the past for them to have resprayed that front bumper (which looks really odd as they've done it without masking off the side/center parts and instead sprayed them white)

[Rolls]

turbo: gt3076/hypergear highflow/kando

injectors

clutch

tyres

fuel pump

intercooler

ecu

suspension

a tune by someone who wont blow the motor up

Will be close to $10k once you do all of this and fix all the things that break along the way. Personally I'd sell the car and buy one that already has 300rwkw, $10k + the price of an R34 will get you a very tidy nice example! MUCH better value imo, buy someone elses money pit and spend the extra getting it up to your standard.

[timbo86]

Looking at the picture you supplied, I'd be a bit worried about what front-end damage has occurred in the past for them to have resprayed that front bumper (which looks really odd as they've done it without masking off the side/center parts and instead sprayed them white)

haha cheers for noticing mate think it might of had a light front end damage but not worried done 2000k in it myself and it drives perfect

cheers for those with helpful comments ill try use the search next time SORRY lmao

he has plenty of money to throw at it so a full rebuild not out of the question im sure once he gets 300ish kws he will want more

i'll start a build thread when he gets the ball rolling

[R31Nismoid]

300rwkw is over DOUBLE what it will be making right now.

260-300rwkw in a street RWD car is pretty much the "sweet" spot between useable power, lag and streetability.

Anymore than that in a RWD Skyline and it's no longer street friendly. Add to the fact 300rwkw is expensive.

260rwkw however is sensible, and much cheaper to get towards, best of all it's reliable and is still a good 100rwkw extra which is much more than you think.

My suggestion would be get him into a car with 260rwkw, you'll soon see how much fun they are due to response etc.

[rondofj]

Nismoid, how is a 300rwkw rwd skyline more expensive to build then a 260 rwkw one? The support ingredients r the same ie- fmc, exhaust, boost, ecu, fuel pump, inj, afm etc, just the turbo is different, and a 260kw hypergear turbos not more 'expensive' than a 300kw one.. Unless ur talkin about things breakin n fixing em up..

[Rolls]

Nismoid, how is a 300rwkw rwd skyline more expensive to build then a 260 rwkw one? The support ingredients r the same ie- fmc, exhaust, boost, ecu, fuel pump, inj, afm etc, just the turbo is different, and a 260kw hypergear turbos not more 'expensive' than a 300kw one.. Unless ur talkin about things breakin n fixing em up..

Assuming you use a turbo that has lots of headroom and tune conservatively 300kw should cost the same as 260kw. If you use a small HG turbo and run 25psi and push everything to the limit on a stock motor there;s a high chance something will go pop from detonation due to thrashing it on the track or in 30c weather.

[R31Nismoid]

Nismoid, how is a 300rwkw rwd skyline more expensive to build then a 260 rwkw one? The support ingredients r the same ie- fmc, exhaust, boost, ecu, fuel pump, inj, afm etc, just the turbo is different, and a 260kw hypergear turbos not more 'expensive' than a 300kw one.. Unless ur talkin about things breakin n fixing em up..

Let me know when you bust the engine pushing 300-330rwkw with the heat those tiny housings must be generating vs 260rwkw when you are less likely.

People are only just starting to push 300rwkw in the last 18 months - its become the new flavour for RB25 owners. Unfortunately however they aren't all hanging together like their 260rwkw brothers have been for much longer, and a few motors are starting to let go. This is not reliable power in my books.

Also other people in this thread are not taking into account suspension, diff, clutch, brakes etc.

Just in those parts alone is another $6000 and thats being conservative.

[timbo86]

he wants big power and like i said he got the money and a full forged motor and other supporting mods are on the list!

it wont be daily drivin, just road rego'd

got another question the traction control wont turn off, the button doesn't click in? is it meant to?

or is it a push n hold style of button? what ever we do it doesn't want to turn off.. thinking it could be as simple as the switch? we can hope

[whitneybra]

Just rip the TCS fuse out.

[timbo86]

Does the Traction button CLICK in?? if so this ones buggered

[jrm]

It's a spring loaded momentary switch. Press it once, that should turn TCS off (and light in the dash), press it again TCS on (light off).

Are you sure TCS is operating? (Can check this pretty easy comparison with TCS fuse removed) Have you checked to see if the TCS switch is plugged in? (People often unplug it when doing work under the dash) Does the TCS bulb in the dash light up when you turn the ignition on (but don't start)?

[skylinecouple]

Traction control is a push then let go, no need to hold it for a second. Pull the fuse and see what happens.

To be planning to make 300kws or even 350 is really going to cause a shit fight as it always does on the forum. You really need to drive a well tuned 300kw car and give your honest opinion. It is useless really. It's like driving a Ferarri F50 and after 6 months of posing and telling everybody that will listen you have one you'll sell it, which is why so many fast cars end up on the market. Listen to others, 260-280 is great, 300 will be RB30 bottom end, and around $10,000 after that.

Trust me, you do not want to be in a car with 300-350kws with standard brakes and just Tien coilovers. Yo WILL die. The tires alone will set you back $250-300 a corner. You will be cop bait at the least when they pull you over and rape you for everything. Try a fully engineered big braked car with every bush in the suspension changed to urethane and again in the diff mounts. What about the clutch ? $1,600 for a Jim Berry full monty. So now you need a 1 way or 1.5 way diff for the power to get to the ground. $ 1,400.

Go to the RB30 results in the performance section and read till it hurts.