My Intake Pipe Design, Stalling Issue And Lean Popping

[DVS JEZ]

Sarge, is the only issue that is annoying u the popping on free rev?

[SargeRX8]

Sarge, is the only issue that is annoying u the popping on free rev?

seems to be, looks like the stalling has stopped. I also get some surging on light throttle

back to the topic.

some more questions.

Which spark plugs are you using?

What gap are the spark plugs?

What coil packs do you have in the car now? which coil packs were in the car when it was tuned? was there any issues with spark when tuning ? was the gaps changed when it was tuned to now?

Who has tuned this car? i know Jez looked at it, but did he do a full tune? I don't know if he does full tunes.

The old intake pipe, was it longer then the new one by any chance?

what fuel pump is inside the car now? what pump was inside the car when it was tuned, was the old pump faulty or running badly when it was tuned? who installed the fuel pump and how good of a job did they do?

Man seriously there are sooo many variables on this cluster f**k of a thread that it is hard to keep up to it to understand the issues you are having, to me it sounds like you have 3 different problems that are not related to each other.

Anyways answer ALL the questions for me, lets see where it goes.

cheers

Hey man, lets start lol.

I use NGK BCP7RES gapped to .8mm. As of about a week ago I am now running standard coil packs, these do not misfire at all even on 20psi but they are going to be swapped out. The old coils were yellowjackets. There was no issue with spark during the tuneup. Always ran .8mm gap.

Advan performance done the tune, Jez modded the tune to suit bigger boost and also tidy up the tune.

The old intake pipe would have been about 4 maybe 5" longer as it had a rubber 90 degree bend on the end to the z32.

The old fuel pump was a GTR fuel pump. It was not faulty. I thought it was so I swapped it with a Bosch 040 which did not create or eliminate any problems. Installation was done by my self, the pump is in the exact standard location and install should be fine.

The main thing which makes this one hard is that the lean popping on free revving does NOT happen until the car is warm. Yesterday I drove home from work at midnight, got to about 66C on the water temp gauge on pfc and it was NOT lean popping. It would rev and hold perfectly.

Edited October 2, 2011 by SargeRX8

[DVS JEZ]

have you rewired the fuel pump to battery voltage as per the DIY?

what temperature does it start to happen at? the only temp corrections in PFC are 50+ and then 80+

[boostn0199]

Now that I have a think about it, I had the exact same probably a few months ago I had lean popping on idle when warm and also had some surging on light throttle like you described and in mine it was a dying CAS. Check your idle timing because mine read at 2 degrees when CAS was dying. Bought a brand new CAS and problems all gone but yeah it gradually got worse over the few months so it was hard to diagnose.

[DVS JEZ]

boostn, what other symptoms did your dying CAS have

[Guilt-Toy]

OK.

Reason why it is stalling from letting go of the throttle is because of reversion, the first intake pipe was longer, I will say this now and I have said this many times before from my experience is that the longer the intake pipe for the AFM the better, when running a power fc i put the AFM right infront of the front wheel inside the gaurd and it solved my problems, i suggest you look at modding the intake pipe and making it the 5" longer as per the old pipe, or put it down infront of the front wheel, make SURE you secure it. Running over your AFM sucks.

The "lean popping" you descibed is exactly that, lean popping, this issue is not anything bad to be honest, but the reason for it is the tune, I looked at that map and it is very messy for many reasons, the load sites where you are on low load and mid rpm where you are holding the revs has not been tuned at all, second to this the reason why it does not pop when its cold is because the power fc has a fuel vs ect compensation, some would call it cold start, and its adding fuel while engine is cold.

Also a little birdy told me that your turbo has some defects on the front wheel? this may be the cause of your low power depending how badly the turbo is damaged, take some pics and post them up.

I would also suggest you send the car and get a FULL tune, if this car came to me I would start from scratch.

Popping on idle for a skyline is normal when you have a weak ignition system, so if it pops on idle that is the reason. Maybe you should install some LS1 coil packs or something.

So pay someone some decent money who knows what he is doing and let him do a whole tune, not just a "clean up"

[SargeRX8]

I suspected a failing CAS but it always seems to be right, when the car is warm it sits perfect on 15degree on the power fc... Also noticed today the car didn't want to start on me. The first crank, it started hit 500rpm then flopped on me. Started the second time. This also happened yesterday, when the engine is cold. The new intake pipe I am making is both longer and has another bend in it to help prevent reversion. The current one has only one bend in it. I was thinking of putting it through the old cooler pipe and putting the filter underneath but I'd then need to work on some deflection plate as I don't want water getting in anywhere.

My old car used to lean pop all the time and I really thought it was normal, almost every modded tuner car Ive heard actually does lean pop. When I got it back from Jez though, it was perfect across the board.

The turbo wheel damage is very minor. I showed it to Tao and he suggested only if it is affecting performance I can send it back to have 1mm shaved off the wheel. There is no problem at all with the power the car is making. The only issues are the lean popping and the stalling which I think is gone.

I payed $800 for a full tune, when Jez got it the car was running rich rich on idle and lean popping worse than it is now.

The lean popping was non existant when my yellow jackets were in there, then it started randomly until last week my coils failed and that is the reason I am running the standard units as we speak. I get no misfire under full boost all the way to red line. I am getting a brand new set of coils for the car, either replacement of yellow jackets under warranty or going to splitfires.

I think Jez done a really good tune. They went all the way from the tiny cells with big load(2nd gear starts on the dyno etc). Each step of the way, ironing out any creases in AFR to reduce the lean popping and also the richness of the tune. All tune work was done on the dyno.

I just tried your fuel test again. The car was doing the lean popping when holding 2krpm so when my fuel warning light came on, I filled a full tank of fuel then immediately started the car and help 2krpm only to hear it lean popping still. The fuel hose was cold so I think that eliminates the fuel temperature.

If I knew where to start, or what to do, I would hook up my FC Edit and fiddle with the idle revs. I'm guessing idle is literally no load so if I just add a little more fuel in the idle cells it may fix the issue.... But this startup bogging has be thinking it may well and truely be the CAS but until I get more symptoms, I can't say it is and as it stands I don't have the money to get another piece.

[boostn0199]

When i said check the timing i mean physically check with a timing light the power fc is not the actual timing it always sits at 15 on idle regardless of what its actually set on its sort just a reference point.

Other symptoms i had were basically the loss of 60 kw due to timing retarted but basically it was just the lean popping and surges kept getting worse over the months until i took it to my tuner to check out the light surges and then discovered lose of power and crazy timing change.

[SargeRX8]

Ill get a timing light on this thing then, most of the shit you're saying are the symptoms I'm having. They kind of just started to happen too.

I'm fiddling with FC Edit on the laptop and the car and when I open the monitor window, its not showing anything in the "basic" and "max" boxes and not detecting any of the sensors... Am I doing something wrong? They are detected just fine by the hand controller.

Edited October 2, 2011 by SargeRX8

[boostn0199]

Theres been quite a few cas die ive gone through two i think there getting to that age now so thats why i opted for brand new. Check it out and hopefully its that and youll solve your problem.

[SargeRX8]

Theres been quite a few cas die ive gone through two i think there getting to that age now so thats why i opted for brand new. Check it out and hopefully its that and youll solve your problem.

How much is a new piece from Nissan?

Also what the f**k, I tried to access the Sensor menu in my handcontroller connected to the FC box and the hand controller stopped responding. I pulled out the FC box and then the hand controller straight to the ECU and it works fine.

[boostn0199]

Nissan want 1300 i got from rhdjapan for 620 or something like that shipped also saw guy on ebay recently selling them 500 from qld

[boostn0199]

Also you can pm elite racing he can rebuild your current one.

[SargeRX8]

f**k me they are expensive.... The rebuild option sounds best really, but I need to get a timing light onto it. When I initially got the car tuned, it was set for 15 base timing. If there is a CAS issue then I am guessing this may be thrown out a little...

And I just tried my Datalogit again, the freezing controller only occurs when I start logging on the FC Edit software then goes back to normal when I stop logging. Its still not showing the max values in the monitor page.

Edited October 2, 2011 by SargeRX8

[Rolls]

Get someone to rebuild one for you, I can't remember who but someone on here mods them to make the signal more stable apparently, I have no idea what/how they do it though.

Anyone know? It might have been elite racing.

[boostn0199]

Well having the timing thrown off is 1 symptom of a faulty CAS but its not the only one but yeah if the timing is way off 15 and no one has touched it then pretty safe to say your having CAS issues another thing with the CAS is they play up when they warm up so that also explains why you have more problems when the cars warmed up but yeah get a timing light onto it but make sure you have the light on it when your having the lean pop problem because my CAS was on it and off it would sometimes work perfect then all of a sudden lean pop so the timing was getting thrown around so you got to make sure it when checking that it is lean popping but yeah would also be good if you could borrow someones working CAS to try would make things easier aswell.

[Guilt-Toy]

you are the kinda guy who breaks his arm, and gets a hip replacement to fix it, then wonders why his arm is still hurting?

I am not going to sit here and argue with you on what is wrong with the car.

Get splitfires, extend the intake pipe a little, get a decent full tune done on the car, Ask Jez for a full tune, if you can run 1.0m gap thats better.

im done with this, continue in this thread or go and actually fix the issues.

[SargeRX8]

you are the kinda guy who breaks his arm, and gets a hip replacement to fix it, then wonders why his arm is still hurting?

I am not going to sit here and argue with you on what is wrong with the car.

Get splitfires, extend the intake pipe a little, get a decent full tune done on the car, Ask Jez for a full tune, if you can run 1.0m gap thats better.

im done with this, continue in this thread or go and actually fix the issues.

Not really. When I got the car back from Jez, it was perfect. No lean popping, no stalling, no nothing. I removed a piece of rubber on my intake pipe which may or may not have been the cause of my problem so I put it back and it had no effect. There was NOTHING changed on the car. Breaking your arm is obvious, but what if you are complaining of abdominal pains and you go to the doctor and explain your symptoms. They aren't going to rush into anything. Its a matter of asking questions and performing many tests to see the cause.

Not many people want to get cut open, pay to have an appendix removed only to find out that you had eaten something bad and needed it to pass.

I'm getting splitfires, but they aren't going to fix my problem. There is no issue with huge load on the engine, so I doubt my coils are the issue. Ive used the old intake pipe, and it had no effect but I am making a new larger piece. Jez did what I would say a full power tune. We still need to tune the car.

I am hoping that with the installation of the splitfires that I can run a larger gap without a miss.

I have listened to all the input here. I actually got to thinking that if the fuel was heating enough that it could cause some issues and I can't be thankful enough for the help you and others have given but at the end of the day, these cars cost money which is why I would like to know if fixing something is going to be the solution, not just a waste of money.

I changed the fuel pump, didn't need to. I changed the fuel filter, didn't need to. I changed the coils, didn't help. I reverted the intake pipe, didn't help. Splitfires will cost me the better half of $500. A full tune from a tune house will cost around $500. Maybe a tune will fix the problem but the fact that the only change between the tune and now was the intake pipe, would lead me to believe that something may be failing. The fact that it is only occurring under load, too, is a sign that something could be giving way.

[Rolls]

lean popping isn't really an issue anyway, means you are running 15-16:1 at idle/really low load which is a good thing imo, better economy.

[Rolls]

Just remember if a full tune does fix the issue it might have just covered it up. Eg my car had a big intake leak on cyl 3 and 4 from the wrong gasket, was bleeding boost down from 18psi to 14psi, the tune 'fixed' this and it ran much better, but obviously the leak was still there I just no longer noticed the issue.

Just to humour me could you do a full intake system pressure test as well? It is fairly simple to do.