What Boost Control Are You Using?

[Jetwreck]

Ok so were are down to 3 choices. Greddy profec spec 2, hks evc and eboost street.

The greddy looks to be the most popular unit. Anyone running over 20psi?

never

[QWK32]

Ok so were are down to 3 choices. Greddy profec spec 2, hks evc and eboost street.

The greddy looks to be the most popular unit. Anyone running over 20psi?

My brother was running one of the HKS ebc's, but an older model one, it was a little bit involved to set up, had to do a handful of runs so the unit had a baseline of the wastegate to go off, then you had to do more runs to set your desired boost level.

I'm running 22psi, but not on a greddy. I would have picked up a profec b spec 2 but they were about $700 when I was looking. What are they going for at the moment?

[RSVFOURUK]

Another profec B vote

It may not be the easiest to set up but if done properly you only have to do it once.

IMHO you dont need 4 or 5 boost control settings on a road car - for me 2 is enough

Mine has coped with 1.5 bar for over 2 years without any issues ( OK i dont drive it every day)

Apart from the fact that a profec b is a good unit may I syuggest a couple of other reasons for using one

You can get a remote wireless switch to swop the boost settings. Fits on the steering wheel so you dont have to drive on high boost all the time just in case you want to use it .

Get the urge press the button its on high boost instantly - My favourite gadget by far

Oh and it happens to fits exactly in the switches hole to the left of the steering wheel

[wolverine]

^^ really, I just leave it on high boost and control boost with my right foot.

[Mick_o]

Ive got a hks evc 6 its easy to use 1 quick turn of the knob between A & B setting which for me at the moment is only 9 and 12 psi

but will be bout 18psi next week! but holds the pressure stable and its got a tps sensor rev counter and peak hold pressure and the likes had it set up by CRD so cant tell you how easy the set up is but ive flicked through the settings and i reckon it would be a snack for anyone who has played with an EBC before

[allpawC34]

profec B spec II , 1.4 bar on HKS 3037

[RSVFOURUK]

^^ really, I just leave it on high boost and control boost with my right foot.

Of course it depends on what your low boost is Mine is 19 psi

[wolverine]

^^ there is always that...

...I still only engage low boost if I hand the car over to someone else.

[Mick_o]

19psi on low boost?!!

U greedy man haha

Of course it depends on what your low boost is Mine is 19 psi

[RSVFOURUK]

It is running twin 2860-5s probably the favorite set up in the uk for an rb26

its set at 1.3 bar on low and 1.56 on high with 99 fuel which is about the norm over here ; there is quite a few running a higher boost than me.

[lilcrash]

Well it looks like I'm going to be running the turbosmart boost t, no one around here stocks boost controls at reasonable prices and it goes on on Friday to attempt a tune again.

[blk94r33]

Well it looks like I'm going to be running the turbosmart boost t, no one around here stocks boost controls at reasonable prices and it goes on on Friday to attempt a tune again.

I'd avoid the Turbo-smart boost tees as they are prone to spiking. Turbo-tech if your going for a tee style one.

[wolverine]

I used a turbosmart T for several years and never had any issues.

I had issues with a Turbotech BUT we were pushing much higher boost than the actuator was rated.

I think the bottom line is that as long as you are near the actuators rating most boost controllers are fine.

I prefer the Turbotech design (it is better) but if I already had a turbosmart T I would just use that.

[blk94r33]

I used a turbosmart T for several years and never had any issues.

I had issues with a Turbotech BUT we were pushing much higher boost than the actuator was rated.

I think the bottom line is that as long as you are near the actuators rating most boost controllers are fine.

I prefer the Turbotech design (it is better) but if I already had a turbosmart T I would just use that.

+1

Much better way of wording it.

[BensDR30]

FWIW, I've had a Jaycar IEBC on my stag for a few years now. Once it's mapped, you don't touch it.

It brings the boost in much earlier than a bleed.

[lilcrash]

just a finalization of this thread.

the boost control doesnt matter if you have a shit chinese made turbo from hypergear

[scotty nm35]

Ouch.

I don't think the turbo builder is responsible for your low figure, what went wrong with the tune for you to stop at 14psi?

I have used both the turbosmart and turbotech regs, the turbotech has a larger bleed hole which can make it hard to control high boost, as Wolverine found.

[lilcrash]

I will try to upload the dyne sheet. Also has anyone else noticed the info missing from the bottoms of staos dyno results. Without all the extra info they look rather false.

Just a note I wouldnt be this pissed off it atleast made the same hp as the stock turbo. It fell a few hp short of the stock turbo. I know different conditions may be at fault but yeah for $100 more I could have had a better turbo without all the extra problems of installing a chinese/eBay turbo.

Edited September 23, 2011 by lilcrash

[wolverine]

I think you need to take a deep breath and learn something about car modification. It costs money and takes time to iron out the wrinkles.

There are numerous reasons for the result from tuning, exhaust restriction, intake restriction, boost control, dyno variance and more. Mouthing off about a product isn't helping you at all.

If you work through each of the issues systematically you will achieve the results that the turbo is actually capable of achieving.

With some humility post up ALL the details in a non-emotional way and you will get a lot of help in the forced induction section.

The dyno sheets with AFR's and boost will help diagnose some possible issues straight away.

Too late I see....

Edited September 23, 2011 by wolverine

[lilcrash]

yes i know i was pissed off and i need to remove some comments.