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What Boost Control Are You Using?

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

I will try to upload the dyne sheet. Also has anyone else noticed the info missing from the bottoms of staos dyno results. Without all the extra info they look rather false.

Just a note I wouldnt be this pissed off it atleast made the same hp as the stock turbo. It fell a few hp short of the stock turbo. I know different conditions may be at fault but yeah for $100 more I could have had a better turbo without all the extra problems of installing a chinese/eBay turbo.

You made over 306.4hp (228.48kw) on the factory turbo? At what boost? That sounds awfully high (unheard of), especially from what I've seen in the dyno thread.

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lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
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You made over 306.4hp (228.48kw) on the factory turbo? At what boost? That sounds awfully high (unheard of), especially from what I've seen in the dyno thread.

i just noticed i miss typed, sorry, it was suposed to read "it feels a few hp short of the stock turbo"

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

The turbotech boost-T are the best of the manual controllers. $30 off eBay, superior to your current turbosmart unit. Check the lines from the turbo for a small split.

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

i just noticed i miss typed, sorry, it was suposed to read "it feels a few hp short of the stock turbo"

The stock turbo will probably be more responsive since its small and very light.

Whilst your new turbo may get going only 300-500rpm higher in the revs, its right in the most-used range, so you're going to notice.

However, once it starts to sing, there should be no comparison with the stock turbo - it should pull pretty hard although looking at the dyno graph the boost does fade pretty rapidly.

While we're on the topic of boost controllers, I'll give another vote for the turbotech one off ebay, but as noted in earlier comments, probably not a good choice for high boost applications.

The turbotech works well around 10-12psi, maybe a little more, but anything over say 14psi really needs a decent controller.

Hope you get it sorted.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
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I really would like to get a blitz boost control as ive got a blitz fatt. But I thought blitz had been sold and they are a different brand now. But I saw one on eBay. So yer :/

  • 3 weeks later...
simark87 Enthusiast

simark87

Posted
Posted

The stock turbo will probably be more responsive since its small and very light.

Whilst your new turbo may get going only 300-500rpm higher in the revs, its right in the most-used range, so you're going to notice.

However, once it starts to sing, there should be no comparison with the stock turbo - it should pull pretty hard although looking at the dyno graph the boost does fade pretty rapidly.

While we're on the topic of boost controllers, I'll give another vote for the turbotech one off ebay, but as noted in earlier comments, probably not a good choice for high boost applications.

The turbotech works well around 10-12psi, maybe a little more, but anything over say 14psi really needs a decent controller.

Hope you get it sorted.

We have wuite a few guys running 30-32psi on teh original controller but yeah teh new V2 isi far superior at high boost..In fact it holds 60psi rock steady under test and to be honest I havent even tried to find its max. it's all in teh desin of the seat and teh speciallly imported ball for the gate that seals solid. Normally gated controllors have a hard metal ball on a metal seat..teh V2 has a metal seat but teh special ball is not metal or ceramic. It is hard but has some flexion so it seals tight.

Cheers.

Mark form Turbotech Performance

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Why do there seem to be heaps of people who like the Blitz dual solenoid units?

I don't really understand why you'd need two solenoids, and why Blitz seem to be the only people peddling a dual solenoid EBC.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

I think it's something like one of the solenoid valves adjusts in big increments and the other in small increments. So with the two working together you can get better resolution/control than units with just one solenoid.

Why do you think the Mac valves are good for automotive applications? Some of the plant that I maintain uses banks of Mac valves and they are still going strong after 10 years, but this is with filtered / dried / cooled air. So I think they are a reliable valve but performance wise I don't know, they still only do the same job as all the festo, smc, norgren valves we use.

PS my gizzmo unit uses a Mac valve and it does the job well.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I installed an IEBC on the weekend & ended up using the factory solenoid to do the control, just rerouted the hoses & wired it up to my controller.

I tested a solenoid I had bought 15 years ago, but it didn't want to pulse reliably above about 30% duty cycle so gave it the flick in favour of the one Nissan already supplied, thanks guys :thumbsup:.

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

A Mac valve would be better...

Why do you think the Mac valves are good for automotive applications? Some of the plant that I maintain uses banks of Mac valves and they are still going strong after 10 years, but this is with filtered / dried / cooled air. So I think they are a reliable valve but performance wise I don't know, they still only do the same job as all the festo, smc, norgren valves we use.

PS my gizzmo unit uses a Mac valve and it does the job well.

I ran a small MAC on my Haltech setup for about 6 years - worked fine. I'm just using an adjustable wastegate actuator rod on y DR now because it's only running around 9psi, but I might build another IEBC and see how responsive I can make the old TO3...

You can just see it (circled) in this old photo when it was fitted to my Z.

post-13940-0-46584100-1319848203_thumb.jpg

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