Jump to content
SAU Community

Rsfour Front Shaft

adey88

By adey88,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
Posted

HiAll,

I have dropped the front drive shaft from my 1999 RSFour due to vibration whichhas seemed to fix the issue. Upon inspection of the shaft I can see that theend joints are notchy when turned which I’m guessing is causing the vibration.

As much fun as the car is in RWD does anybody know of a place that can servicethese joints (uni??) so they are smooth? Am I better off buying from Nissan -if so does anybody know the part number? Or maybe just a clean with somedegreaser and new grease??

Your help is appreciated....cheers,

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377608-rsfour-front-shaft/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

No and Yes. They are designed to be not serviceable - i.e. there are no circlips to enable you to the joints apart - but in fact a driveshaft specialist can machine them open, replace the joints and balance them. You will have to ring around to find someone to do this or another member may be able to tell you where it can be done. All front drive shafts are the same - Stagea, GTS4 and GTR.

If you decide to buy a new one please post up the price although I suspect it will be considerable!

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No and Yes. They are designed to be not serviceable - i.e. there are no circlips to enable you to the joints apart - but in fact a driveshaft specialist can machine them open, replace the joints and balance them. You will have to ring around to find someone to do this or another member may be able to tell you where it can be done. All front drive shafts are the same - Stagea, GTS4 and GTR.

If you decide to buy a new one please post up the price although I suspect it will be considerable!

Thanks for that, I'll try and find a driveshaft specialist... Are you sure the shaft is the same as a GTR as they do look pretty small... I was under the assumption GTR had bigger shafts!

If somebody has the part number please let me know and I'll get some pricing from nissan....

cheers

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

I just spoke to AJ @ Lincorp 02 8844 4400 (Parra Nissan) to buy some new front driveshaft nuts and bolts. He should be able to find the part number if you have your VIN handy.

If you need 4 new front driveshaft nuts and bolts let me know as I bought a bag of 10 or 12.

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just spoke to AJ @ Lincorp 02 8844 4400 (Parra Nissan) to buy some new front driveshaft nuts and bolts. He should be able to find the part number if you have your VIN handy.

If you need 4 new front driveshaft nuts and bolts let me know as I bought a bag of 10 or 12.

Thanksfor that Wolverine - Had a chat to them and they need to order from japan asnobody has one in AU...

Nissan wanted ... wait for it.... $1231 for the front shaft (not sure if thatincluded postage as i didn’t bother asking).... Forget that - ill be eitherdriving RWD permanently or have my unit fixed

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, it is cheaper to remove your left kidney than buy some parts.

The vibration wouldn't happen to be coming from irregular rolling diameter of front to rear tyres by any chance?

Have you checked fluid levels on ATTESA as well?

Tell me about it, bloody expensive.... Its not the tyres as its been vibrating under load since I can remember plus the tyres are new... Most of my suspension has been replaced and just by turning the joints in the shaft by hand I can feel its very notchy and not smooth... I should check the attessa fluid though!

I have a spare unreconditioned driveshaft. Not really looking to sell it - was just going to get it recond at my leisure but if anyone is stuck for one you could have it for $150 posted.

Thanks Kiwi (bob) ill keep that in mind - ill see what it will cost to get mine recond' and get back to you....

Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

the trouble with the front shafts are that the angle never changes as the engine, transfer case and trans are all bolted together, so the load is always in the one spot. Realistically the could almost have gotten away with a solid shaft, but that wouldn't allow for any misalignment.

AAA34T Community Regular

AAA34T

Posted
Posted

yes the cv shafts are serviceable i got mine done 6 months ago at australian cv and power steering at granvile has done heaps of stageas cheap quick nice guys and their boots they put are stronger than any aftermarket one you can buy.They also do the cvs for a few dealers in parramatta.

call 96380022

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

i have this problem also, mine is an rs4 series 1 stagea so will it be ok to take out the front shafts while i send them down to get fixed as i am located in n.t?

I could be wrong, but the CV shaft is what holds the wheel bearing & hub assembly together. You won't be able to drive with the CV shafts out; the wheels will fall off.

adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes the cv shafts are serviceable i got mine done 6 months ago at australian cv and power steering at granvile has done heaps of stageas cheap quick nice guys and their boots they put are stronger than any aftermarket one you can buy.They also do the cvs for a few dealers in parramatta.

call 96380022

Sorry guys I think we are talking about a different shaft - I am referring to the shaft that connects to the transfer case - see below pic:

post-65306-0-40114200-1316558970_thumb.jpg

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

My Stag had a vibration under heavy acceleration - and a notchy shaft was the cause. My price for a new front shaft was a bit less than $1200, but not much. It had to get fixed somehow because I couldn't drive the car RWD only for any length of time - too much power & not enough grip.

Cost was around the $350 mark for new unis and balancing.

  • 10 years later...
stolen-gtr Proficient

stolen-gtr

Posted
Posted
On 9/22/2011 at 9:34 PM, BensDR30 said:

My Stag had a vibration under heavy acceleration - and a notchy shaft was the cause. My price for a new front shaft was a bit less than $1200, but not much. It had to get fixed somehow because I couldn't drive the car RWD only for any length of time - too much power & not enough grip.

Cost was around the $350 mark for new unis and balancing.

Hey Ben

Sorry to dig up an old thread!

This is exactly my problem too - i have PM'd you

Who did you get to fix up your front shaft??

Thanks man

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      NC MX5

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...