Wrecking Nissan Skyline R34 Gt T 1998 Turbo Manual
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By CanadianGuy · Posted
I’ve gone down the Rb30 rabbit hole the past few days and it sounds pretty sweet, only thing that really turns me off is the $2500 price tag for a bare block people are asking around here. That being said I’ve got a snowmobile I could sell to get the majority of the bottom end done lol -
By TurboTapin · Posted
Compression test is good. Leak down is same across the board but could be lower. It's a loose engine, I specifically asked my builder to build it on the loose side as I was planning on running 35+psi. I'm also growing more convinced it's blowby. My engine builder wanted me to do the good old oil in cylinder then compression test to see if it goes up so I'll go ahead and do a cold, hot and hot with oil compression test to see. I also went ahead and filled my catch can with stainless steel wool to see if it accumulates anything now. I'll report back in 200-300km's. -
I see now that it is liquid. Highly recommended. I have 25Neo in mine. It is nice to have some torque, any torque at all. Something that the RB20 is just completely bereft of. Mine will** pull away from 800rpm in 5th. Same rolling start is best done in 2nd with a 20! **Will, and does regularly. Might even be able to do it from 600 rpm, but that's not really all that feasible in traffic where it would take a bit too long, and is the only place where I roll around that gently. RB30 even better! (Perhaps just not under a 32 bonnet). -
Mostly likely it is blowby....past the rings, through the crank, straight through the catch can and out the breather so there is no evidence it ever happened. I know the compression test was good but that is really the only way to loose oil without any (much) evidence, assuming nothing is plumbed back into the intake of course. It would be interesting to see if the cold compression test is much different as that could be when it is getting through the rings Still....just fill it up and keep going if it makes good power, a lot of higher power RBs are built with loose piston clearances and use a bit of oil as a result -
Yeah the question is really too broad, it depends what you want to do with it. R and S chassis are still good for club racing, but I'm retiring my 32 GTR from rally because I just can't get hold of body parts (at any price) if a repair is needed. It is still outright competitive but not practical any more
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