Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I just bought a set of Rays LMGT2 wheels and I want to fit them to my R33 GTST.

Specs:

Rears: 17 x 9 unknown offset? (sticker was removed) with 245/45/17 tires

Fronts: 17 x 8 +38 (they didn't clear my R33 calipers) with 225/45/17 tires

Now im looking at buying bolt on spacers all around. I have my Rear guards rolled and flared already, the Front guards are rolled only. The car does sit pretty low and i was wondering would 15mm or 20mm Spacers would be ok without scrubbing?

the look im after is making the wheels stick out the guards a bit all around.

post-63786-0-39916700-1316423732_thumb.png

I'm using 25mm front and rear on a 33 GTS T using 34 GTT rims with 245/45 17 rubber, I just used a ruler to work out the size and got one pair to trial fit, they fit just inside the guards, no rubbing anywhere, my ride height is 350 front and 340 rear.

Bolt on hub centric from Just Jap.

I recommend using locktite on the nuts and bolts on the spacers and torqueing them up tight.

Just saw you have the front 38 so you can go 20 or 25 on the front. If you run camber on the front go 25 if not can go 20 to be safe. I run camber on my front and have 20 mm spacers with same size rims and they sit slightly out of the guards

Thanks for the replies guys, I ended buying 20mm spacers all around.. im very happy with the front, I got the look im after, no scrubbing either. At the back... it looked awesome! but scrubbed on the guard :( Now im thinking of raising the car up at the back so i can fit the spacers, because i just fell in love more with my wheels when they stuck out the guards lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...