Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i was wondering if the steering wheel of the v35 coupe 2003 model can be made smoother....i have already changed the power steering oil...

the steering still feels heavy and upon turn doesnt go back to straight..

is this model specific.. that is does this car have the steering hard.,,,

Your tyres and wheel alignment are the next things to check. Also, believe it or not your tyre pressure. If your tyre pressure is too low your steering can become much heavier.

Also, your car may have done SIGNIFICANTLY more km than the odo reads (there is a guy in Sydney who can change your odo to read whatever km you want for $100) .... so things like your steering rack and all associated bushes and links may be worn and need replacing. Best bet would be to take it to a decent Nissan mechanic - or indeed a Nissan dealer, describe the problem and get them to troubleshoot it.

Well i got 42 psi in 235 18' and alignment seems fine... As for the ODO ...seems orginal and good cond...

So how hard is v35 steering ? Cause I have hear adnd read on the forums that the model comes with hard steering...Is it that hard that it does not snap back (meaning straightens aftering turning)?

Associated bushes and links..? tell me more ...if these go wrong how can one come to know....would like to explore...

Well 42psi is actually WAY too much. You should be running about 35psi. That should be making your steering easier.

I am running 245s up front on 9.5" rims (so wider tyres and wider offset), so my steering should be heavier than yours. But mine is fine. So you definitely have something wrong.

Depends what you are comparing it too as well. The steering in my old S15 was definitely lighter than the V35, but it was a much lighter car too.

As I said, get a mechanic to look at it.

Well i got 42 psi in 235 18' and alignment seems fine... As for the ODO ...seems orginal and good cond...

So how hard is v35 steering ? Cause I have hear adnd read on the forums that the model comes with hard steering...Is it that hard that it does not snap back (meaning straightens aftering turning)?

Associated bushes and links..? tell me more ...if these go wrong how can one come to know....would like to explore...

If your in Sydney I can have a quick look for you!.....more than likely your front lower bush's are stuffed on the steering to chassis arm.......very common problem for cars that have done more than about 80-90K.....I can replace on the spot if needed with Super pro bush's.

nope not in sydney..in brisbane...can you let know the part numbers...?

also can this tutorial be used..........

http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/461191-diy-lower-control-arm-bushing-replacement-translink.html

i was hoping i can look underneath and figure out whether the bush are straight or not.........? what do you think? Any suggestions?

I am open to go to a mechnanic ..know anyone in brisbane?

thx for the help...looking eagerly for your answers

Edited by @rawed

Hey Jet whats the cost to have that done, my car is at 105 000KM now and i figure that i may have to get them done soon as it seems like a common issue

I'll do them while you wait.....$300 ex GST.

I can only do them after 4PM Weds, Thurs or Friday....or on Saturday or Sunday depending on what I have on.

This is using the Super Pro stuff.

PM me for more info

nope not in sydney..in brisbane...can you let know the part numbers...?

also can this tutorial be used..........

http://my350z.com/fo...-translink.html

i was hoping i can look underneath and figure out whether the bush are straight or not.........? You need to confirm whats wrong first.....it sounds like theses are the ones that you need http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-parts?id=SPF2849K what do you think? Any suggestions? Do you recon you could get the arms out by yourself? If so I have an exchange set available.

I am open to go to a mechnanic ..know anyone in brisbane?....unfortunately no...most other states yes!....but I could ask around for yah....I could see If someone I know wants a small cashy!

thx for the help...looking eagerly for your answers

well i am wondering besides the bushes ...and the tyre air, alignment reason what else could be wrong...

power steering pump? how can one to know if this is faulty.........

I saw this video ...

and noticed the power steering.. this is super smooth...has there been a modification done in this video... seems a v35 2003-06 model...

so after watching wondering if the steering is this smooth...?

thanks guys for the help so far...

looking foward to knowing more and fixing the problem with ur help

Edited by @rawed

Not too sure if this will help the OP.

I had a similar issue with my Lexus IS200.

I found that once I fully flushed the power steering system - steering became normal - possibly some of the old fluid is still in the system.

It took 2 fluid changes to sort it out.

Will bushes from a G35 work?

hey Tank how heavy is ur steering......did u look at the youtube video link i post here...i guess the steering of g35 or v35 shud be something like that..?

what do u think?

regards

^^^ FFS, listen to what we keep telling you, YES, YOUR STEERING IS F$#%^ED - take your car to a mechanic.

As I already said, I have wider tyres than you, wider rims than you, and my steering is still quite light. You CLEARLY have something wrong. Why have you not taken your car to a mechanic yet??????

^^^ FFS, listen to what we keep telling you, YES, YOUR STEERING IS F$#%^ED - take your car to a mechanic.

As I already said, I have wider tyres than you, wider rims than you, and my steering is still quite light. You CLEARLY have something wrong. Why have you not taken your car to a mechanic yet??????

frustrating isn't it..

carmen ->craig -07-38811800 -> that is all..

how can we help you if you do not want the help..

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys so i think i have some sort of issue but im not sure if it is the bushes, when i make long sweeping turns and fast lane changes at 60kmph + my slip light comes on and the front of the car digs in and pulls like it is going to slide out but the car is no where near the point of breaking traction, the car has good tyres on it onle a month or 2 old, all the oils where changed at 100,000km and coolants so the PS and the rest is all good, im thinking that this could be a VDC issue or the bushes maybe, im going to have it looked at this weekend anyways not something i want to mess around with as the car almost does a 180 if im not looking out for it the 1st time it did it scared the shit out of me. Do you guys have any info on this issue?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...