Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's great mate, but we're talking suck through.

Z24 cranks stroke them out to 2.4L and they go like hell. But it requires a fair bit of work to get a Z crank to fit an L series.

sorry dad . . . just pointing out that carbs and turbos have been used together succesfully for many years to the point where sealed carbs can be ordered off the shelf (mainly for V8s tho)

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The world needs more angry Ford 2.0 pinto's and L20s etc imo

and im a Big engine nutter

my dads always going on about the 2L pinto engines reckons theyr the titty balls haha

are they hard to find?

Not all that common in Aus, more of a UK and USA thing, but im sure they wouldnt be hard to get.

Interestingly though, the YB Cosworth Engine that powered the Sierra/Escort Cosworths was a basically a Pinto Block with the Cosworth twin cam Head fitted.

Huge range of performance parts available in the UK

Im gonna have to stay out of this thread now because im wanting a mk2 Cortina to drop a Pinto into.

Edit

Aussie 4cyl Cortinas had the Pinto Engine so they are out there

also - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ford-escort-2ltr-pinto-/260858153173?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbc5b88d5

If you ever come across a genuine Lotus head at a garage sale, buy it.

A Ford Lotus head in decent nick will fetch upwards of $20k.

On that note, if you ever spot an LZ head, steal it. You could retire on what those things are worth.

Or for that matter a genuine FIA Big Port L series head, bare, will get you nearly $20k.

Make sure you hear it at 1 minute in. Pure magic.

And if you want to hear what nearly 10,000rpm out of a Datsun motor sounds like:

problem with those things is that only the right person will pay that. the rest of the world will just see a ratt old cortina/datto motor.

sweet sounds, i'd have a Lotus cortina, sweet car.

There's plenty of Datsun/Pommy Ford enthusiasts and the internet makes it simple to get in touch with people who will pay those prices.

An FIA head was sold via Ozdat a year or so ago for big, BIG bucks. A post went up and there was genuine interest from a number of parties and it sold within a couple of weeks.

If you ever come across a genuine Lotus head at a garage sale, buy it.

A Ford Lotus head in decent nick will fetch upwards of $20k.

On that note, if you ever spot an LZ head, steal it. You could retire on what those things are worth.

Or for that matter a genuine FIA Big Port L series head, bare, will get you nearly $20k.

Make sure you hear it at 1 minute in. Pure magic.

that video was obviously the aftermarket OS Giken Twin Cam head for the L series motor, not an LZ or FIA head.

that video was obviously the aftermarket OS Giken Twin Cam head for the L series motor, not an LZ or FIA head.

How do you suppose that? Was it the title - "OS Ginken" or the start where it says "OS Ginken"?

  • 2 weeks later...

blow through > draw through.

if you want to run any meaningful boost, this would necessitate the need for some form of charge cooling, do this with your carb now being METERS aware from the motor, you'll have throttle response you can measure with a calender (know somebody that went through this 20+ years ago with an XE falcon).

and its not just a matter of 'sealing' the carb, it needs to be boost referenced on the feed side, as to compensate for the boost moving through the venturi.

blow through > draw through.

if you want to run any meaningful boost, this would necessitate the need for some form of charge cooling, do this with your carb now being METERS aware from the motor, you'll have throttle response you can measure with a calender (know somebody that went through this 20+ years ago with an XE falcon).

and its not just a matter of 'sealing' the carb, it needs to be boost referenced on the feed side, as to compensate for the boost moving through the venturi.

Clearly you've never owned a draw through turbo car.

Clearly you've never owned a draw through turbo car.

no i've been told how bad it was to consider attemtping it. had an L20B datto that would have been a prime candidate too...

so why does nearly every turbo V8 thats out there use blow through instead of draw through? we're talking serious cars, making 4 figure hp, and single digit E.T's

mainly because you can get big 4 barrel carbs designed out of the box for big blow through superchargers/turbos

edit - even those turbos have mega issues, they have to have huge main jets to flow enough fuel at full throttle that they run massivly rich at part throttle (even when setup properly) and while waiting for boost.

youtube some videos on them and listen for the big miss as they go WOT and watch the huge black cloud out the back of the car,

they really are only dyno queens or quater horses that are either at idle or WOT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.
    • FD RX7 I would probably marry if legal R32 GTR is toughest NSX looks like it's made from leftover Prelude and Accord bits  
    • When going to a suspension shop should I send them the default nissan settings or just let them do their own thing? I ask this because I have aftermarket rear camber arms and my car is lowered a bit (front end is basically stock after I change to those nismo bushes)
    • Ok sounds good, thanks for your help. Hopefully if I end up changing it to the nismo bushes I don't get that veering issue. I don't think there's a point in lubing up these bushes again. Weird that it it makes just as much noise with all the grease inside it versus without grease prior to removal. Bizarre.
    • Yeah, you don't need camber bushes on stock arms to make a car drive straight unless it's got another problem. F'rigsample, slide the thing into a kerb, bend the front subframe mounts a little....subframe is now twisted, shifted or otherwise in the wrong spot...and you need to do funky stuff with the wheel alignment to get it to drive straight. Maybe a little more caster on one side, or a little more camber. FWIW, I can have my camber off side to side by a half a degree or more, and either way, so more one side, or more on the other, and the car doesn't really want to pull to one side. It will definitely ride road camber differently, and want to track uphill (ie, towards the centreline when on the LHS of a normal crowned piece of road, like it should) or want to roll downhill (which it really shouldn't). But on fairly flat road surfaces, like the middle of a 3 or 4 lane motorway, a half a degree either way doesn't make a lot of difference. I sometimes do quite a few miles with my wheel alignment messed up, because I don't always get a chance to set it right again after a serious dismantling, before I have to drive it to work again. Like, a whole week's worth of daily shuffle.
×
×
  • Create New...