Jump to content
SAU Community

Carburetor Running Turbo Engine?!


RBert
 Share

Recommended Posts

no i've been told how bad it was to consider attemtping it. had an L20B datto that would have been a prime candidate too...

so why does nearly every turbo V8 thats out there use blow through instead of draw through? we're talking serious cars, making 4 figure hp, and single digit E.T's

WTF? You're comparing a 1000+hp V8 with an L20?

What are you saying draw through are no good for?

Getting some really good horsepower out of an old carby motor, such as an L20, or building a dyno queen with 1500hp at the wheels?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i'm saying with a draw through, all the setups run without any charge cooling, limiting total boost that can be run, and the ones that do are cops to drive because the carby is up to a couple of meteres (cooler piping length) from the actual cylinder, where normally its only a few inches. fair to say i havent driven and tested it back to back, but i know someone that has, and has explained to me in the passed just how dramatic the difference is, i have no reason to doubt him.

regardless of whether its an L20B or a 1000hp turbo V8, the characteristics of airflow dont change, and i can't see a carby working efficiently that far from the motor... would like to see, as a point of comparison, what low load driving is like in a draw through setup... something decent though, not a standard L20B with an uncooled turbo blowing straight down the intake, something with proper charge cooling and running a meaningful amount of boost.

just to clarify, i do think draw through is fine for low boost, basic setup on an old motor, something that's only ever going to see low hp levels (like an L20B), but on a grand scale, in this day in age, i think blow through has it all over draw though

Edited by VB-
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a Mazda 323 (last of the rear drivers) with a draw through setup running 22 psi with water/meth injection. I could have pushed it harder but it would pick the left hand wheel up off the ground which made me think that perhaps enough was enough.

It had over 230hp at the bags out of a 1.4 and revved to 9400rpm. Doesn't sound to shabby to me. And I had a stock L20 (decomp plate) with a draw through T3 in a 1600. It ran a lazy 8psi (no cooling) and put out about 135rwhp. That thing was a torque monster

So I've had both, a built draw through and a stocko draw through and both were f**king brilliant and neither suffered through lack of an intercooler.

I've also had a Z18et running straight LPG and now two RB25s (R33 and a Neo Stag). I'll be damned if the draw through set ups lacked in any way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fair call, neither 'suffered', but think about what the L20B would have been like running double that boost, for the *simple* thing of modding the carb for blow through and running a cooler?

and i'd say the 323 did have charge cooling, although its not something i'd setup in a street car through fear of me not checking it and running out lol, hence i still stand by my previous argument, although it is a good happy medium for the scenario at hand

do the 25's both really have the lpg mixer pre-turbo? any pics of the setup, sounds quite peculiar....

Edited by VB-
Link to comment
Share on other sites

fair call, neither 'suffered', but think about what the L20B would have been like running double that boost, for the *simple* thing of modding the carb for blow through and running a cooler?

and i'd say the 323 did have charge cooling, although its not something i'd setup in a street car through fear of me not checking it and running out lol, hence i still stand by my previous argument, although it is a good happy medium for the scenario at hand

do the 25's both really have the lpg mixer pre-turbo? any pics of the setup, sounds quite peculiar....

The L20 could have taken much more boost with a little more work. It was a tired old motor so 8psi was an amount which wouldn't stress it too much.

The Z18 had the mixer pre-turbo, the RBs weren't LPG.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gosh these bmw's are worse money pits than JDM's! I won't complain about my car anymore 😂
    • I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands.  So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point.  You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol. 
    • And this is where the leak is happening: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7h1vlmg2j5aa7rksvsjc9/IMG_9982.jpeg?rlkey=d3bnpau5f615zmxqmca0llvr7&st=kquvdxvs&dl=0   Apologies but it seems adding an image from a link does not work when the images are in Dropbox. 
    • Here are some pics from the auction: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0
    • Hi all, From the western suburbs here. Just got my 2000 R34 GTT registered today! Got it imported from Japan through a mate who is doing them and managed to find a decent one. This one has only done 110,000 Km and had no body rust etc. so was very happy. I used to own a 25Gt back in 2015 (ate Ramen noodles for years to save up for it), but unfortunately, it got stolen TEN DAYS after I bought it!! Came back from Uni and the car was missing - cops found it in Springvale a month later with a lot of needles  😒 It was too late by then and I had moved on to a different car (300ZX), and after that one got broken into around 2018, I was in a very bad place and decided I would never buy a car again because it was just pointless!!! ~yeah, I have some very bad mojo~ 🥺 But now, with a stable job and a secure garage, I thought I'd get the R34 4D again but not as a daily! I love the R34s but a GTR is still a bit off my pay grade so settled for the GTT instead.    The first step for me is to get this car serviced and have all fluids, belts and spark plugs changed. I might do the brakes at one point too but atm they are fine, the fluids are what I want changed since this car probably sat in a garage for a long time. I'll then get some coilovers since the suspension needs to be changed anyway (the dust cover kit is disintegrating). I'll also upgrade my car alarm to a Viper system and then look at rims and tyres (I'm a sucker for TE37s - might have enough saved in another 3 years for that).   Today: I was planning to do the oil, coolant, air filter and fuel filter change this week. Started on the oil change today and MY GOD what a pain!! I used to think the 300ZX engine bay was cramped - oh I was so wrong! 😂 I've done the usual services on my cars before so it was not like I was going in blind. I looked up all the forum details about what oils to use, what coolant to use, what points to use to jack the car or place stands etc but I did not expect it to be this hard. Long story short - all I managed to do was the oil and filter change. I think I might end up taking it to a mechanic for a coolant change because my SCA stands and trolley jack just can't get far enough underneath to the cross-member and I don't want to be crushed under my favourite car....yet. Side note: In Dandenong, there used to be a shop that lets you hire their hoists - does anyone know if they have those around? I can't seem to find the Dandenong place anymore. I contacted them off FB almost 6 years ago and I'm not in it now. If anyone know of one, that would save me some time going to a mechanic for the basic services. Oil: Dark and gooey but no metal pieces. Oil Filter: Was a b***h to take off but no red flags Air filter: Yucky! Was black (Smells like fuel which makes me think it may have been running rich? - am I way off?)   Concerns: I have but one concern atm and that is that there was a very small amount of oil leaking where the engine and the transmission connect (Automatic). It may be the rear seal? It's not a massive leak and it does not affect the oil pressures or leak oil all along the driveway. It's been falling into the cover this whole time. I've taken the cover off so I can check the garage floor from time to time.  I also have not seen my engine temperature gauge ever sit at cold and slowly move up to the right spot, but that might be because every time I saw the car today, it was running. I'll check that again tomorrow. ATM it just sits right in the middle. I may just be paranoid but I don't want an overheating engine while my gauges say everything is fine. 🙈 Other than that, I'm very happy with the car! Feels like it's about time I went back to spending my weekends driving or cutting my arm on stupid sh*t in the engine bay.   PS: I will post a pic later on because I underestimated soooo badly today and it was dark by the time I finished! PPS: I broke the two damn plastic pins that hold the intake funnel section to the front bar. This is the piece made to bring cold air to the airbox. The connection to the airbox is fone, but the two clips just broke off! Should I be worried? Anyone else done that? 
×
×
  • Create New...