Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Rb26 Carrillo Pro-H Rods, New R34 N1 Crank, Eagle Rods, Jun Mains, Arp Mains, Rps 6Puck Clutch


Recommended Posts

PRICES IN US DOLLARS

changing my setup..... got a bunch of goodies up for grabs here at rock bottom prices

all prices are plus shipping.

shipping is coming from the states so heavier items might be a touch pricy to ship....

***1st up is a set of totally baller Carillo PRO-H rods w/ CARR hardware.... these rods are the best money can buy for rb25/rb26.... the CARR bolts alone are $60 EACH (x12= $720) these cost right around $1900 new.

im selling for a steal at $1000

img3583dz.jpg

img3572i.jpg

img3574l.jpg

img3573b.jpg

***Im also selling a set of JUN main studs for rb25/rb26. These only have about 1000 miles on them.... retail is something like $500, so i think $200 is fair......

***I have a set of used ARP mains as well..... $150obo

***Also i have a BRAND NEW OEM NISSAN R34 N1 crankshaft..... brand new in the box never used or even placed in an engine

Im shooting myself in the foot selling this for $800 but I need to move it!!!

img3408nq.jpg

img3593c.jpg

img3594k.jpg

img3597jr.jpg

img3596j.jpg

img3595e.jpg

***selling an RPS 6 puck clutch with HD pressure plate (blue) rated at 550ft/lbs... plenty of friction material left.... upgrading to twin plate.... was functioning perfect when removed

$300 plus ship

312731_2400019323635_1345604671_2806590_6920817_n.jpg

299035_2400020683669_1345604671_2806592_5037895_n.jpg

320360_2400022323710_1345604671_2806593_1566039_n.jpg

302092_2400024243758_1345604671_2806595_7573976_n.jpg

***Also up for grabs is a set of Eagle H-Beam rods for rb25/rb26 with less than 1000 miles on them (2 are brand new).... obviously mint

$350 plus ship

294607_2400002403212_1345604671_2806575_1756517_n.jpg

319617_2400004243258_1345604671_2806577_6024460_n.jpg

294556_2400014483514_1345604671_2806587_7452780_n.jpg

299885_2400016203557_1345604671_2806589_3887242_n.jpg

PM with interest

Awrsome price on the carrillos! I bought these new from the US a few monyhs back and paid a fair bit more than $1k!

Too bad your in the US, the brand spanker crankshaft is tempting, but freight would be rapeful!

Good luck with the sale!

yea USPS looks like about $275usd to aus. for the crank

UPS is DOUBLE that

Edited by R32N00B
  • 2 weeks later...

shipping the crank to AUS is going to run about $275usd through the post office (cheapest option ive found) it weighs almost 50 lbs.....

i also have ACL race series main/rod bearings in STD size for rb26 as well..... $150ussd

  • 3 weeks later...

acl bearings, jun mains and clutch sold

still have Carrillo Pro-H rods with CARR bolts, Eagle rods with arp2000 and ARP main studs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...