Jump to content
SAU Community

Electronic Ignition Spark Problem

coupe72001

By coupe72001,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377739-electronic-ignition-spark-problem/
Share on other sites
hcg210 Collaborator

hcg210

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Here's a bit of a weird one. I have a Datsun 260C, and just did the handy electronic ignition upgrade using an r30 coil and electronic distributor.

The weirdest thing is happening. The spark leads out from under the coil lead, and arcs to the positive terminal of the coil. Some spark makes it to the plugs, so the car runs... just.

I have tried 3 different coil leads, two of which are new, but the problem remains to some degree. Anyone know what's going on here?

Cheerio, Drew

Hi Drew,

Check the condtion of your leads, try another set to see if it still does it.

Mario

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Possibly a failing/cracked coil - is there any oil or staining present around it?

NIssanman would only know about buggered R30 ignitions because I own(ed) all the R30's in the family...

rofl.gif

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, the coil looks good, although crack spotting is hard with a black coil, but I've ordered another one off fleabay to eliminate this possibility anyway. We'll see how we go if it ever turns up!

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well this sucks. Have tried two new aftermarket coils (generic 12V and GT-40). Both send spark down the ignition lead, but spark does not make it to the spark plugs, ergo the car turns over, but doesn't fire.

When I go back to the second-hand factory coil the car gets spark and runs, but runs like crap due to half the spark arcing to the coil terminals.

I can conclude from this that aftermarket coils cause the leads to fail (jokes).

The wiring is correct, the leads, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor button are new. I'm flummoxed.

Drew

You said this is on a 260C ?, is it a 12 volt, or 7.5 volt system ( coil ) ?

the original system on my 240K worked like this, 12 volts on crank, 7.5ish on running ( one wire was built with resistance in it), to get around this , for me , at the ignition switch, there was 2 wires running back to the coil, 12v for start, 7.5ish for run, so I join them together, so 12v crank and run, then I connect my electronic ignition distributor to this, I ran a wire from the + on the coil (12v) to the module on the dissy)

it's easy

Nigel

Edited by noddle
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Very awesome theory. I didn't know about the 7.5V wire. At any rate, new and old coils alike all say 12V.

To eliminate wiring as an issue, I've hot-wired the car with 15amp wires as follows:

1. Positive terminal on battery to positive terminal on coil.

2. B (battery) from the ignition module to positive on the coil.

3. C (coil) on the ignition module to negative on the coil.

4. The ballast resistor has been deleted.

The results are the same. Arcing with the factory coil. Inability to start with new aftermarket coil. Bummer.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I gave up and went to an auto electrician. The distributor was running the incorrect rotor button. I blame Autobarn. Interestingly, the standard Datsun coil was`the only one powerful enough to throw the spark the extra (excessive) distance between rotor button and distributor cap. The sparkys were stunned the car ran at all.

Thanks to all who offered theories. D

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just for the record, there are two types of dizzy for R30. One for Auto, one for manual.

I dont know what the difference is but it is listed in the workshop manual and I know a manual wont start with an auto dizzy.

Edited by 66yostagea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • PotatoCake
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...