Jump to content
SAU Community

R32Gtr Parting Out Melb

MeL_rps013
 Share

Recommended Posts

MeL_rps013 Enthusiast

MeL_rps013

Posted
Posted

Hi I am parting out my 1994 r32 gtr white in colour, located in Melbourne.

So far only these parts are for sale as the car is still complete i will add parts when i get some space..

Radiator $200

Washer bottle $50

Stock intercooler $200

Stock afm's $150

Power steering reservoir $30

Over flow bottle $50

Factory bov's with piping 150

Exhaust 3" dump pipe back $400 jasma

Front door trims $200

Rear door trims $200

Dash $80 (centre vent plus passenger vent broken)

Cluster $150

Doors x2 $300 minus trims

Sill garnishes $100 pair

Bonnet $550

Grill $150

Rear bumper $200

Carpet $80

Tail lights x2 $150

Centre gauges $50

N1 headlights x2 $300

local pick up only

ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377795-r32gtr-parting-out-melb/
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Done, will take the front bar with lip too (assuming it is on ok condition with the typical stone chips and scrapes on the bottom that come from driving the car?). Would also appreciate the windows with the door... :) Does it come with the window regulators as well or is that part of the door trim component?

Have sent you a PM, please respond and we can discuss further there :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha! well, there's your problem!  Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....
    • MBS206
      V36 wreck (edited from V37 by mod)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It seems like you guys want to behave like rabid dogs, rather than gentlemen... Knowing one has jumped in on a fellow comrades near done deal, and sniped it at the last second, how can one sleep at night?
    • GTSBoy
      V36 wreck (edited from V37 by mod)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My wifes says we have a spare set.
    • DraftySquash
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Good news!!! Changed the O ring today and I’ve got the “pssshhhh” back when I open the fuel cap 😂🙌🏼🙌🏼 It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank 😂😂😂😂😂 Fitting new fuel pump was a pain as always since the DW is a bit longer than stock. But she’s running!!! ❤️
    • GTSBoy
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      PWM quite literally just chops the ful 12V voltage on and off at whatever duty cycle you're running it at. If you're running it 100%, then it is on full voltage all the time, same as if there was no PWM. If you run it at 50% duty cycle, it is only seeing the full 12V half of the time. This is broadly equivalent to running it at 6V. But the crucial difference is that motors (and a lot of other loads) don't like being powered at low volts. They will either fail to start rotating, or draw a shit ton of current, or other undesirable things. But if you give them the full volt, and then a short period of no volts, and then some more full volts, then the times when they are seeing power they are seeing all the voltage, and they are happy. But you get the performance out of them as if they were only seeing that fraction of the full voltage. It is not really easy to answer your question about what flow you will get out of it at 50% duty cycle. I can tell you that it is not as simple as you think. For a start, that 460 L/h pump is not going to flow 460 when you're on boost. When you're on boost you will be somewhere down the sloping part of that red line. If you have 15 psi of boost, then the pump can only deliver about 95 gal/h, which is <380L/h. So your simple 50% on 460 = 230 wasn't going to work anyway. But also, it won't deliver 50% of 380 either, because when you devolt or PWM trim th epower being fed to the pump, it is not able to deliver flow or pressure in the same way. 50% duty cycle will probably produce <50% of the full voltage flow. The way to find out what duty cycle you need to run it at at low load (ie, at idle) is to idle it and turn the DC down until you start to lose fuel pressure, then turn it back up above that with some extra for safety. And then you do the same thing at full load, in case it doesn't need anywhere near 100% DC. And if you're careful/caution/prudent, you will also do it at a couple of loads in between so you can shape the DC map against load. It might not be linear between the two end points.
×
×
  • Create New...