Jump to content
SAU Community

Clear Coat?

Ruxis

By Ruxis,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted (edited)

Do you want to do the whole car? Or just the affected areas?

Whole car I'd say 150-200 for just a paint correction.

Sections of the car is hard to say, most pros work by the hour.

Also ive heard good things on scratchx 2.0, if you don't want to spend the money on a detail just yet.

Edited by eat_me
Even_Flow Enthusiast

Even_Flow

Posted
Posted

Any decent detailer/painter should be able to fix your problems man. You can get different abrasive grade cuts, so prob an aggressive cut will do the trick and if not. a light rub with P2000 wet rub then a cut to bring back the shine will remove slight scratches and your water mark problems. Take it to a few shops and ask some questions. If its a 2000 model car the paint shouldnt be that bad.

Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted

Do you want to do the whole car? Or just the affected areas?

Whole car I'd say 150-200 for just a paint correction.

Sections of the car is hard to say, most pros work by the hour.

Also ive heard good things on scratchx 2.0, if you don't want to spend the money on a detail just yet.

I haven't found scratch X to be that effective .. for a hand polish i generally use FI CAP medium and ive heard good things from other guys serious about their detailing about P21S paint cleansing lotion, which is actually made for a hand polish

Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted

it works okayish .. but it took me some serious muscle to get even the most insignificant marks out of my paint

i used autoglym paint renovator once when i first got my skyline, i found that to be quite good :)

i quite like autoglym products actually, pretty good for off the shelf stuff

you're not in perth are you? I have tons of scratch X and autoglym paint renovator sitting around ...

i keep buying more stuff before i get even halfway through the last bottle pinch.gif

Even_Flow Enthusiast

Even_Flow

Posted
Posted (edited)

it works okayish .. but it took me some serious muscle to get even the most insignificant marks out of my paint

i used autoglym paint renovator once when i first got my skyline, i found that to be quite good :)

i quite like autoglym products actually, pretty good for off the shelf stuff

you're not in perth are you? I have tons of scratch X and autoglym paint renovator sitting around ...

i keep buying more stuff before i get even halfway through the last bottle pinch.gif

We use autoglym in the trade. Well the wax anyway. It's good shit and very well priced too...

Def worth a try IMO.

Edited by Even_Flow
Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted (edited)

We use autoglym in the trade. Well the wax anyway. It's good shit and very well priced too...

Def worth a try IMO.

wish my workplace did that :(

we use autosmart ... breaks my heart to send a car out detailed with that stuff ...

90% of my products at home are from brands like Final inspection .. only off the shelf stuff i use nowadays is some of meguiars/mothers, or autoglym ... preferably autoglym

in far less time than it takes me to do a car at work i can get a car looking much better and with alot less effort ....

i started off with turtle wax "ice" products though when i first started detailing

Edited by Jonno34
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Is it worth trying a clay bar to get sap stains etc off the car..or a cut/polish?

Doesnt need to be fantastic as the car is being re-sprayed soon, but looks rubbish atm, my black car looks grey/dull due to all the shit on it

Washed it this morning and it looks crap

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

A clay bar will definately give that black a better shine. More depth persay. As for the tree sap, if it's etched into the paint I'd recommend clay barring the car then use a cutting compound and Ofcoarse seal it afterwards.

You're call will look a million bucks, depends on how much damage the tree sap did is dependent on the end result.

As for the grey look, that will most certainly be gone.

Like it was said. Clay bar = magic :). Haha

Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted

yeah just use a clay bar and hand polish mate, if i have any dodgy stains or anything i just hand polish that spot and seal that area back up

breaks my heart to get rid of all the layers of seal/wax that i build up over the months though :(

P21S paint cleansing lotion is good

off the shelf stuff - ive found autoglym paint renovator to be very effective, i used it on my skyline when I first got it, improve the paint condition by millions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...