Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Golgo did a 12.9 with slipping clutch (single plate) in 1st and 2nd. Oh... and Sam was driving. My best time is a 13.0.

Ran 190awkw on Sunday - but was not going for high power - just wanted some fire :)

mas_04_04_100b.jpg

The car has an exhaust, pods and PFC - so pretty stock. Plus Leewah makes everything look underpowered. Nigel (Ice Perf) noted recently that the crank-angle sensor is way off tune (from before I owned the car). A set of cam-gears, a new clutch and a 'from scratch' tune should see some higher figures.

Not that I really care - still goes pretty darn quick when I need it too :)

Thanks for your concern though.

Oh - and Golgo is a guy, not a girl :D

Yeah - I was told I had cam gears (even have a reciept for them) yet had not had a chance (until very recently) to pull the cover off and take a peek. Seems that the dealer or previous owner may have removed them and not set the CAS up properly. Has more top-end than it should though.

AF ratio is OK - but O2 sensors are f*cked and as such the car has fuel economy on par with an ocean-liner.

Also - the dyno was set to run up to 200km/h - and my car peaks in 4th around 230/240km/h. But... no excuses to be made, the car simply is not as powerful as some other GTRs, and was never intended to be. It is driven and enjoyed every day, washed at least once a week - and makes a fabulous cruiser. All the while looking pretty pimp and blowing some nice flames :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
×
×
  • Create New...