Manual To Auto

[goa33]

Problem with that Luke?

[GTSBoy]

Problem with that Luke?

Yuh, same problem I had with it. Only makes sense if you can't drive a manual due to having a left leg amputated or if you're making a deditcated drag car.

All other reasons are fail.

[goa33]

The poor guys asks a simple question and gets shot down, maybe he's not a drift queen and doesn't need the manual.

[PaulosECR33]

few things

Autos drain more power (which i asume is the most important thing) than manuals as there is fluid coupling until convertor lock up... compared to an engaged machanical clutch giving direct drive..

trimatics are sh*t, even most built ones

if you do put a built & manualised auto in with a higher stall (which u might want if your putting a gt3540 on a rb25) you would want a proper trans cooler... & diff gears if ur real serious...

if its manualised u still have to select the gear anyway...

why not just put an r33 auto in it? saw one sell on ebay for like $400...

what bout speedo do u care if its out.. or works at all?

perfect thread below for u

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/349853-vl-auto-or-t400-gear-box-for-r33/page__p__5644301__hl__r33+speedo__fromsearch__1#entry5644301

[ST240]

I went through all this not long ago, rebuild a Jatco that will only last so long. Find a ecu that will control it and so on. I ended up putting in a powerglide so i could choose

whatever ecu i wanted. Bought the parts to rebuild it from Summit racing and you will have a box that will last.

Herein lies the problem. I called up a local tranny shop to find out which older domestics dont use a computer similar to the R33 autos but that still has O/D for daily driving, turns out there arent that many. My choices would be Ford AOD or Chevy 700R4. Upon researching them, I discovered that neither has a removable bellhousing, which leaves them out (I'm assuming the easiest way to do this is build a bellhousing adapter and use an R33 bellhousing, which I have in my possession). I'm now leaning towards a ford C4 like so many others have done.

few things

Autos drain more power (which i asume is the most important thing) than manuals as there is fluid coupling until convertor lock up... compared to an engaged machanical clutch giving direct drive..

trimatics are sh*t, even most built ones

if you do put a built & manualised auto in with a higher stall (which u might want if your putting a gt3540 on a rb25) you would want a proper trans cooler... & diff gears if ur real serious...

if its manualised u still have to select the gear anyway...

why not just put an r33 auto in it? saw one sell on ebay for like $400...

what bout speedo do u care if its out.. or works at all?

perfect thread below for u

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5644301

Why not R33 auto? I'd love to, but I can't find any solid info on shift kits, manual valve bodies, trans brakes, control needed, etc. It needs to be able to stand up to 300 rwkw hard launches too.

Thanks for the link .

[KiwiRS4T]

These guys will sell you a street version of the Powerglide:

http://www.nealtrans.com/racing-transmissions.html

[PaulosECR33]

there is an r34 gtt in QLD with a R33 Rb25det stroked to 2.7 full built with a T88 33d making 490rwhp.. it uses a 300zx 4 speed auto with a manualised reverse pattern valve body and like a 4400rpm stall convertor (i think dont quote)... seems to be doing ok... also got nismo 2way & gtr cvs...... maybe check the 300zx auto out.... i really like that car too except for the auto.. being a fan of manual and all ....

if you are going to do it i reckon check all the nissan stuff until its gets too pricey then go c4 or t350 in my opinion..... but all that other Sh*t i mentions would still apply...

Edited September 24, 2011 by PaulosECR33

[Room42]

It looks like luke and gtsboy still are stuck in the mindset that auto cars are slower and you need a manual to pushstart it. Well here news boys. Auto's are quicker!!! Line up an auto and a manual with the same rwhp and the auto is quicker. Haha you both FAIL and the fact that you comment as you have in public makes it so much more FAIL. Haha anyway just a lighthearted dig. No need to cry about it. I'm sure this little vid will make yous happy again. Lmao as if I give a f**k about what anyone says....ooops I just pissed myself laughing

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=h5oWX06iXbI

[WHITER33GTS-T]

There is only one problem that can be encountered from that setup.....he will have ford parts on his car. May as well drive the thing off the edge of a quarry right now.

I have a C4 in my R33. Nothing wrong with ford parts when they are built strong...

[Room42]

I have a C4 in my R33. Nothing wrong with ford parts when they are built strong...

Exactly. I know a bloke who has a ford 9 inch in his gemini. It needs it.

[PaulosECR33]

u could say a manual is quicker than an auto.. and vice versa there are so many variables though... i bet you a car equiped with a quafie or holinger sequential box would destroy lots of automatic cars but then a car with a powerglide & 5k stall fall manual blah blah blah all the crap would destroy most normal manuals on the street but that is extrene ends of the scale and the truth is not many ppl have them.. i would have to say out off the modified street car scene in aus the autos would be quicker in a drag race ( will probably get in trouble for saying that).. but i also have to say that drag racing on the st doesnt mean Sh*t ... i kno what id prefer... ill take Black spur, arthurs seat or great ocean rd in my quafie over a hectic drag at princess highway ANY DAY.

oh yeh stop bitching and look at 300zx autos

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Don't be a wankstain. Auto cars are bloody boring to drive. Not to mention the risk of your sister (girlfriend) accidentally kicking it down and gaining 200HP in 0.5 sec and spinning it off into a tree. But seeing as most of you juvenile late term abortions can't drive anyway, I would guess that you'll probably put it off the road yourself and then blame the sister (girlfriend) instead.

Who gives a shit whether the cars are faster in straight line? If all you're going to do is put your foot flat to the floor and hold on, then you might as well not get out of your PS3 buck in the lounge room.. you'd be a hell of a lot safer playing GT3 than being out on the road with the rest of us anyway. (Safer for us, that is).

Clown.

Have you driven a modified auto..? I cant see how they are boring. Mine you still need to put thru the gears (like a manual) but I dont have lag between gears so its a little more lively than a manual when on power.

The only thing I cant do is clutch kicks to get wheelspin.

Each to there own on manual/ auto setups. How boring would things be if everyone had the same setup...

[Room42]

Have you driven a modified auto..? I cant see how they are boring. Mine you still need to put thru the gears (like a manual) but I dont have lag between gears so its a little more lively than a manual when on power.

The only thing I cant do is clutch kicks to get wheelspin.

Each to there own on manual/ auto setups. How boring would things be if everyone had the same setup...

Hey mate I'm sure if that's your car specs in your signature you don't need a clutch kick to get wheel spin. P.s my wife went to uni in Launceston and I lived in Hobart for a couple of years before we moved to Perth. The roads here are no where near as good as Tassy and the air is no where near as cold. And there is no tele with cheap steins on a wednesday either.

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Yep thats the power its making. Will be more soon with a few more psi.

[Room42]

Yep thats the power its making. Will be more soon with a few more psi.

Bloody oath mate. I'm putting a genuine garrett gt3582r with a 6boost manifold on my r33 gtst early next week. I have supporting mods to tune it to wherever. It will be held back by the fuel pump which is an intank walbro good for 255 lph and stock internals. Should have it on the road by next weekend. It will be a pleasant change from 200rwkw .

[ST240]

Please, if you dont like autos, we dont need to hear about it. Keep your opinion out of this discussion.

[ST240]

Back on topic.

I'm really trying to decide what route to take. It seems it will cost me at least 3k (and prolly a few years off my life lol) to properly adapt a c4 to the back of my RB. The pluses are I live in Canada and the parts for these units are a dime a dozen and if I didn't like the auto I could at least sell the build tranny to recoup some cost.

If I go R33 auto, It can be had for dirt cheap, but parts and setup will be a royal pain. I still have not received any concrete pricing or what is needed to make an R33 auto drag-ready.If I want to get rid it, it might be hard to sell over here.

Edited September 24, 2011 by ST240

[WHITER33GTS-T]

I got my C4 from Protrans and it was ready to bolt onto the RB block. It came with a yoke to suit the box and had to modify the tail shaft to fit a bigger uni joint to suit the C4 yoke.

Made a new gearbox cross member to use the original mount points from the manual setup.

Im running a transbraked C4, 3800 stall on my 26/30

Have a look here on the Protrans site.

http://www.protrans.com.au/ford_c4_c10.htm

[ST240]

I got my C4 from Protrans and it was ready to bolt onto the RB block. It came with a yoke to suit the box and had to modify the tail shaft to fit a bigger uni joint to suit the C4 yoke.

Made a new gearbox cross member to use the original mount points from the manual setup.

Im running a transbraked C4, 3800 stall on my 26/30

Have a look here on the Protrans site.

http://www.protrans....ford_c4_c10.htm

I saw that. How much did the setup cost? Hows that 3800 stall on the street?

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Cant remember the exact price but I think the change over to auto was around 8k, with shifter, transcooler, lines, convertor, flex plate. etc

From the few times it was driven on the street it was great. Way more fun to drive than a manual. Its been off the road for a while getting a new engine build so will give it a good work out soon